iHateVolvoPeople
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The stock e-fan comes with the 24" radiator at least on 940. It can be fitted to the 18" as well, but you have to fit it in the viscous fan housing and the clearence to the waterpump on turbo models is <0,5" because of the intercooler. The wider radiator sits further in the front, you can use the original e-fan housing and you have far greater clearence to the waterpump.
I'm running the stock e-fan with the 18" radiator, controlled by the ecu. I also added a switch for control, since the ECU starts the fan a bit late IMO.
I went to buy one of the thread-in sensors, and found out that my link was long dead. I think all the links in the thread are dead.
So... here is the thread size M22 x 1.5
And here are 4 part numbers and manufacturers.
BECK/ARNLEY 2011612
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TS280
FOUR SEASONS 20036
WVE 1S4488
Basically any of the sensors that fit an 85-91 VW Eurovan will thread into the Nissens radiator. Some of them have different on/off points. I'm liking the Beck/Arnley and WVE for the low temps.
Gonna run a one speed wonder, eh?
this is nice.
what male connector fits?
I've got a 30 amp on mine, but you should also get a large capacitor, like one for a car audio setup, to help with the initial draw of the fan starting. This will help your alternator from having spikes of sudden draw.Question about fuse selection for an e-fan conversion....
I am doing an e-fan conversion on a 240 currently with a clutch fan, and for this, I have a fan and shroud from a 960, and the 2-speed controller/relay that goes with it. I am assessing the options for a sensor, but there's loads of good discussions about sensors here on this epic thread!
But - after trawling through this thread, I'm still not clear on the choice of fuse (unless I missed something). The 940/960/850 fans are a well-trodden path for these conversions, so what is the most common set-up for a fuse?
Some opinions say a 30A blade fuse. Some say a slow-burn fuse - to get over the start-up current draw - which could presumably be lower - maybe 25A rating. I know it has to connect to that small junction box for high-current DC next to the headlight relay near the battery.
Does anyone have ballpark info about current draw at both speeds, and start-up current draw for this 940/960/850 fan? I guess this would answer the question.
Thanks
Thanks PieterI've got a 30 amp on mine, but you should also get a large capacitor, like one for a car audio setup, to help with the initial draw of the fan starting. This will help your alternator from having spikes of sudden draw.
From my knowledge something like this, theoretical It should not have the same draw as the fan at first, and then it won't happen again until you turn the car on again. The fan will turn on and off, so it will keep drawing close to 30 amps every 5 to 10 minutes depending on driving. I would put it after the fuse, which i used just a standard aftermarket blade type. I didn't do my wiring like most people here though for mine. The Cap is definitely not required, just something to be nice to your power systemThanks Pieter
Are you using a standard 30A blade fuse in one of those waterproof inline fuse holders?
And what sort of capacitor - eg - type and spec? And where - before the controller/relay unit? I'm no electrics expert, but wouldn't a big capacitor (say 4700uF)have a current inrush spike of its own, initially? This is a new suggestion - I can't remember seeing people talking about caps in this 38-page thread or others.