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B230f+t vs LS swap

again, manual changes a lot of stuff. A t56 being at least $1500 and then an LS7 clutch/flywheel for another $600-700 adds a lot to it. Anyways, oil pan, manifolds, accessory drive setup, cooling system, driveshaft, shifter, etc etc aren't free. Yes, you can absolutely get a takeout for $1000 for a 5.3, but by the time you get it in the car and running even with a 4l60 or th400 it will be $4k with a decent converter in it too. Why just slop it all together if it ends up driving like crap because you cut corners to make it cheap?

Again, I would be using a 4l60 or th400 and not a t56.

5.3, 4l60, wiring and ecu $800-1000
Material to fab mounts free from work, bushings $30
Radiator, fan and hoses $300.
Driveline balance after I fab one $80 maybe.
New u joints $40.
Shifter for the tranny $250.
Tune up and fluids $200.
Exhaust $200
Intake $50-100
Misc $200-300

That?s $2200-2500

Even if I forgot to list something I?m still not seeing where you?re coming up with another $2000 Also, unless I add a cam and a turbo why would I need to upgrade the torque converter?

How is any of that cutting corners? How would it drive like crap? It?s basically just installing a stock setup into the car.
 
I think you should do the LS route. It sounds like you're more in favor of ls swap versus +t. Bare bones swap, considering nothing bad comes up. $2.5-3K seems reasonable.
 
And even at the 300 whp level, there's the 'quality' of the HP to consider, not just the 'quantity'. A small motor with a big turbo is going to be, even with a $$$$ turbo, going to have some lag. And be a bit peaky. And be a bit 'quirky' at producing power - a bit of an on/off switch. I was able to get mine fairly well behaved using electronic boost control tied to throttle position/RPM (in MS) - that helped get some degree of linearity back into the gas pedal.

But a big NA motor? It's just instant-on with that 300 whp. At low rpms - it's got grunt. At any point in time you press the gas, you've got the HP instantly. And peak HP aside, there's the 'area under the curve' - how wide that torque curve is.

I never weighed my car before with the turbo 16V motor in it, so I can't really compare to say how much weight the turbo LS/6-spd manual added. But my best guess would be 'very little. A chunky iron blocked 4 cylinder vs. a modern al lalu small-block V8? it's not a foregone conclusion that the V8 weighs more, or by much. Who knows, it might even weigh less if you don't have a turbo and use some lighter headers in place of the cast iron exhaust manifolds.

And at least when I bought mine - the alu 5.3's were still relatively cheap. Everyone seems to want the relatively rare alu 5.7/6.0 motors. So while the alu 5.3's weren't dirt cheap like the iron blocked truck motors, they were still less than half the price of the bigger displacement alu motors.


All valid points. I think if I recall an ls series 4.8/5.3 is only about 100-150lbs heavier than a redblock. I like the instant power but I also like that at the factory power level the LS is already at the top end safe level of a redblock?s. Seems like a better choice for reliability and longevity.
 
From the pure enjoyment angle, I would go with the LS, LM swap. If you can fabricate, you are going to be in the $3,000 range for a complete swap. You will have something that will out perform any Volvo engine you can possibly install in your car. It isn't just the numbers on paper. In order to get a "Real" 300 hp reliably out of a redblock engine, the cost is going to be higher than the Chevrolet swap. Then, you have to consider the aftermarket support. To bump it up to 500 hp from their stock 310-325 HP rating takes ~ another $2,000. The Volvo engine is not reliable at that level, period. The weight of the two engines is very close. The fully dressed LS1-LS6 weighs approximately 460 lb. A long block B230 without manifolds, turbo or any accessories weighs 310 lb. I have shipped several. Fully dressed with the flywheel, turbo, manifolds, starter etc they are approaching 450 lb. Almost the same weight, 2X the power stock. I'll take the LS if performance, reliability, fuel efficiency, emissions output, quick starts, smoothness etc are my goal. Hmmmm, what's left? Purity of the build? I'll leave that to the rest of you.
 
All valid points. I think if I recall an ls series 4.8/5.3 is only about 100-150lbs heavier than a redblock. I like the instant power but I also like that at the factory power level the LS is already at the top end safe level of a redblock’s. Seems like a better choice for reliability and longevity.

You have a very clear understanding of the big picture. Do what makes you happy. Pushing down the gas pedal in a V8 powered car that weighs 3,200-3,300 pounds makes me happy.
 
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Again, I would be using a 4l60 or th400 and not a t56.

5.3, 4l60, wiring and ecu $800-1000
Material to fab mounts free from work, bushings $30
Radiator, fan and hoses $300.
Driveline balance after I fab one $80 maybe.
New u joints $40.
Shifter for the tranny $250.
Tune up and fluids $200.
Exhaust $200
Intake $50-100
Misc $200-300

That?s $2200-2500

Even if I forgot to list something I?m still not seeing where you?re coming up with another $2000 Also, unless I add a cam and a turbo why would I need to upgrade the torque converter?

How is any of that cutting corners? How would it drive like crap? It?s basically just installing a stock setup into the car.

If you really think you can do it for that cheap and it sounds like you think you can and that's what you really want to do, then why the **** are you here asking questions? Just ****ing do it and stop wasting time here.
 
Again, I would be using a 4l60 or th400 and not a t56.

5.3, 4l60, wiring and ecu $800-1000
Material to fab mounts free from work, bushings $30
Radiator, fan and hoses $300.
Driveline balance after I fab one $80 maybe.
New u joints $40.
Shifter for the tranny $250.
Tune up and fluids $200.
Exhaust $200
Intake $50-100
Misc $200-300

That?s $2200-2500

Even if I forgot to list something I?m still not seeing where you?re coming up with another $2000 Also, unless I add a cam and a turbo why would I need to upgrade the torque converter?

How is any of that cutting corners? How would it drive like crap? It?s basically just installing a stock setup into the car.

You should add at least another $1k for nickel and dime expenditures. That's always where you get killed on engine swaps.
 
Also, your numbers are heavily skewed in your favor....being that I have been around a bunch of people who have done the swap (both bare bones to full tilt), you'll be in it $3500 if you cut all the corners possible all said and done.
 
Thinking about how much my swap cost - a lot of it was related to turbocharging it (manifold/turbo kit, MS gold box kit), manual trans (Nissan trans, adapter kit w/clutch, shifter, 240 hydraulic clutch).

You would save a lot by just sticking a stock auto trans drivetrain in. The turbo and stick shift probably doubled my overall costs.
 
Even if he is into it $3,500, it will be money better spent since his goal is performance. You can only polish a turd so much. It's still a polished turd.
 
I?ve considered this route as well. What mods do you have and how do you like it?
V1 was a complete hack job that cost less than a few hundred after selling off parts from the donor mustang. Just a stock 5.0 HO from a 1990 Mustang, mustang ECU/T5/clutch, and a modified driveshaft to mount up to the volvo diff. Then that engine died from low oil, overheating, and standing on the rev limiter.

V2-5.slow uses: SCAT rods, ProMaxx aluminum heads, Explorer intake, stock forged pistons and a fully balanced rotating assembly, a Lunati 20350712 cam, and a microsquirt. It straight rips above 3k rpm, and pulls to the limiter at 6500rpm. It's been happy so far doing all-day open drift events sitting on the limiter.

Including the purchase price of the car, all maintenance and upgrades (performance and suspension), we've only spent $8700 on the car over the 7 or 8 years it's been running.

If you really think you can do it for that cheap and it sounds like you think you can and that's what you really want to do, then why the **** are you here asking questions? Just ****ing do it and stop wasting time here.

Agreed, just do it.
V1 5.slow took 2 weekends to complete with the help from a friend. It was a rolling death trap, but it was fun for the 2 years it was like that.
 
If Ls, gotta be a 6.0, hp tuner is 800$, or mine was, ls7 lifters, ls6 chain, 500$ cam. Alum block? Go ahead and tap it out for the larger head studs. Gotta pull the heads to get them lifters, but new cam will call for better springs anyhow, gm blue springs are the only thing that is cheap.

Building a LS is expensive too, a jy lq4 will do 400hp with a lil added timing, 1000hp with a pair of turbos and widened ring gap, but when the lifter fails it?s pricy.
 
You can buy an entire LS1 Z28 in the $2,000-$3,000 range these days. I've turned down 4-5 of them in the last year. That gives you everything you need to do the swap. Sell off the left overs.

I have 3 of them sitting out in my front yard. $1,900 for a 2002 LS1 convertible with 4l60E, $2,400 for a 1998 Coupe with 4l60E and the most expensive one was $3,400 for a nice 2000 LS1 Z28 with the T56 6 speed. I turned down a $2,000 Buy It Now for a 2000 LS1 Z28 Coupe with the T56 in Copart that was a running, driving car. It was clean title. A little banged up. I was considering buying it for slumlord for his 240 swap, however, he didn't have the cash at the time the auction was taking place. I could go on and on, however, there is no point. They are out there. The T56 alone in that car was worth the Buy It Now price. Anyone with a Copart account could have bought that car. General public included.
 
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You can buy an entire LS1 Z28 in the $2,000-$3,000 range these days. I've turned down 4-5 of them in the last year. That gives you everything you need to do the swap. Sell off the left overs.

That's the best way to do it, even with the Ford 5.0.

I picked up a foxbody mustang GT for $1300 a few months ago. I pulled the engine, t5 trans, ecu, nitrous kit, and the exhaust off. Sold the car for $300 the next weekend to someone putting a turbo redblock in it for a gambler car...

Engine had 30k on it, but needed new bearings and a crank regrind due to RTV in the oil pickup. So $185 and an evening later it's ready to go back in the car.
 
A 5.3 will make close to the same power with a cam swap. And if you spend the same amount of money on power adders on the 5.3 as the 6.0 costs over it, then you'll probably come out ahead with the 5.3
 
^^

I don't see the need for the 6.0. Land speed record, maybe? 9's in the quarter? Bragging rights? The Volvo drive train and chassis will only take so much without a complete make over.
 
That's the best way to do it, even with the Ford 5.0.

I picked up a foxbody mustang GT for $1300 a few months ago. I pulled the engine, t5 trans, ecu, nitrous kit, and the exhaust off. Sold the car for $300 the next weekend to someone putting a turbo redblock in it for a gambler car...

Engine had 30k on it, but needed new bearings and a crank regrind due to RTV in the oil pickup. So $185 and an evening later it's ready to go back in the car.


My wife?s uncle is a die hard Mustang guy and he keeps bugging me to 5.0 swap it. Did you keep the fuel injection? He?s saying to do HCI and switch it over to a carburetor.
 
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