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Old 10-16-2021, 09:44 AM   #151
linuxman51
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it won't reduce torque at the shift, so it'd only exacerbate the issue lol.
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Old 10-16-2021, 10:35 AM   #152
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Haha, sorry man!
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Old 10-16-2021, 12:02 PM   #153
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Fix it with spray?
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Old 10-16-2021, 08:47 PM   #154
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Fix it with spray?
dammit, owned by the mod buttons.


yes that would "fix" it lol

I imagine if I just keep driving it spiritedly, it will "fix" itself on out anyway hahaha
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:35 AM   #155
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been trying (not too well though) to keep the abuse down, focusing mainly on the 1200 to ~ 4000rpm range, with a fair amount of success. lots more timing than I anticipated esp down low, it's quite a bit more pleasant now. also massaging the ve table a bit at a time as well.

one area that has been a fairly decent struggle is idle control without a tps, MS does a lot of things fairly well without having a tps hooked up, but idle control is a struggle (it idles fine, however stopping from driving can result in a very low idle, so I fiddled with several things and it's a bit better, but it won't be "right" until I put a 0-5v tps on the car (Also, other things will be available at that point as well, so I'll be doing it anyway for that, but trying to get as good a 'pnp' baseline as possible to have available even though I don't make those anymore)
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Old 10-19-2021, 11:47 AM   #156
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Good to hear your account on the driveability stuff. I have started out with the idea of plug and play on the last couple cars, and it always ends up PNP+. Lots of things just works better with a TPS sensor swap and rewire. In addition to that, LH2.2 needs an idle control valve swap and wiring change. And then I like to run a boost control solenoid too. That's a bonus feature. But they work well these days and go a long way to controlling boost and the pinging you get when the manual control valves spike past the set point right at the torque peak. It looks like you added coils too. Not so easy to swap back to LH computers on the side of the road after you do all that.
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Old 10-27-2021, 09:49 AM   #157
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it's not. I took a spare microsquirt to MM in case of issues-I didn't have any.
adjusted the kickdown some more this morning and found a gnarly fuel leak (return from the rail was leaking pretty good). You may be wondering how you can miss such a thing, and the answer is.. well it was and wasn't.. I've noticed cranking the car up lately that it has a fuel-y smell to it, but the breather goes to a powerade bottle in the front and also stinks... so I attributed it to that... and on the occasion I've had the hood up with the car either cold or running, didn't notice. it hasn't been up very often though in that configuration, so I didn't notice until this morning when I not only had the hood up right after starting the car, but was in the general area to adjust the kickdown and try and squeeze some more life out of the ol aw71.

I was successful on both fronts this morning, in fixing the leak (that no lie is probably over a gallon of fuel per tank, it was a healthy burn your car down kinda leak ). I did wonder why my econ dropped off the last tank, but attributed that to having a heavy foot and driving around town.
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Old 10-27-2021, 10:23 AM   #158
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Can you use the existing LH2.4 TPS just to detect idle for idle control? (It's also nice to see in the logs, even if it's just on/off.)
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Old 10-27-2021, 10:51 AM   #159
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I haven't tried that, but I reckon you could. I did toy with the idea a while back but never really got around to testing it out. would rather the full 0-5v sweep anyway so I can do other things, but that could resolve some of the idle challenges
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Old 11-01-2021, 07:17 PM   #160
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Small things that (hopefully) have big impacts in the overall experience:

adjusted base idle to around 800 rpms hot (idle is set at 900 in the ms), it was down around 400. this allows me to set the closed idle valve value such that "closed" at temp it will idle juuuust under 900rpms (yes, cheating). if I had a tps I could then set idle adaptive timing to finish up the rest of the story, not that it idles poorly now (but not being able to get a good closed-loop setting, it's always in closed loop idle it seems).

replaced the clamps on the fuel return line.. after tightening up the top one last week, the bottom one decided at some point it wanted to join in the fun and was dumping fuel this morning. greeeaat. snugged it up for the trip to daycare, and replaced both clamps this afternoon. much tighter. Took a few minutes and logged the car driving around the neighborhood and up the road a little, to see if/where I need to make adjustments to get things in-scope for ego feedback to work the way it ought to. Car really runs quite pleasantly, it will be a good bit of fun with the ipd turbo cam, but all of the 'under the curve' tuning I've done while periodically messing with it on the way to and from daycare has paid dividends in the overall feel and relative smoothness. crisper shifting from the transmission, a decent e-fan (looking at a 16in derale, 2400cfm, should be able to get it to fit in the shroud with some trimming), and the aforementioned cam swap should round this out nicely.

also got the foam for the headliner, need to track down some appropriate adhesive and fabric.. probably going to be a thanksgiving project if I'm honest, and something interesting and grey (cloth, preferably) for the front seats that has some bolstering should round that out. need to drum up a sub and make an enclosure that fits the spare tire well I reckon (shouldn't be that hard), or just use the small sealed box I've already got... may do that in the mean time either way.. oughta be a good starting point for the stereo.
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Old 11-01-2021, 07:23 PM   #161
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So after all the dyno research, and assuming that fab work is free/negligible in terms of time invested, would you put a Garrett core down low or up front, or use a DO88 stock location core? This assumes either the -91 or 92+ formats and A/C is functional.
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Old 11-01-2021, 09:34 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
So after all the dyno research, and assuming that fab work is free/negligible in terms of time invested, would you put a Garrett core down low or up front, or use a DO88 stock location core? This assumes either the -91 or 92+ formats and A/C is functional.
kinda depends on power goals. I'd say for a moderate setup (350-400ish maybe) the ease of install for an npr/do88 is fine. putting the intercooler out front isn't a bad idea and doesn't generally cause issues as long as care is taken with ducting and sealing (see also, evo's), and you'd have a hard time putting something like the big garrett core anywhere but out front. There are any number of ways to solve this issue, I wouldn't mind testing the blue car's intercooler against some of these other ones, but that would be a challenge. might almost be easier to figure out how to hook them up on the blue car and just use it with the test coolers hanging out the bottom. May contemplate trying that one day.
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