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Old 10-16-2021, 09:44 AM   #151
linuxman51
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it won't reduce torque at the shift, so it'd only exacerbate the issue lol.
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Old 10-16-2021, 10:35 AM   #152
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Haha, sorry man!
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Old 10-16-2021, 12:02 PM   #153
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Fix it with spray?
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Old 10-16-2021, 08:47 PM   #154
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Fix it with spray?
dammit, owned by the mod buttons.


yes that would "fix" it lol

I imagine if I just keep driving it spiritedly, it will "fix" itself on out anyway hahaha
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:35 AM   #155
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been trying (not too well though) to keep the abuse down, focusing mainly on the 1200 to ~ 4000rpm range, with a fair amount of success. lots more timing than I anticipated esp down low, it's quite a bit more pleasant now. also massaging the ve table a bit at a time as well.

one area that has been a fairly decent struggle is idle control without a tps, MS does a lot of things fairly well without having a tps hooked up, but idle control is a struggle (it idles fine, however stopping from driving can result in a very low idle, so I fiddled with several things and it's a bit better, but it won't be "right" until I put a 0-5v tps on the car (Also, other things will be available at that point as well, so I'll be doing it anyway for that, but trying to get as good a 'pnp' baseline as possible to have available even though I don't make those anymore)
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Old 10-19-2021, 11:47 AM   #156
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Good to hear your account on the driveability stuff. I have started out with the idea of plug and play on the last couple cars, and it always ends up PNP+. Lots of things just works better with a TPS sensor swap and rewire. In addition to that, LH2.2 needs an idle control valve swap and wiring change. And then I like to run a boost control solenoid too. That's a bonus feature. But they work well these days and go a long way to controlling boost and the pinging you get when the manual control valves spike past the set point right at the torque peak. It looks like you added coils too. Not so easy to swap back to LH computers on the side of the road after you do all that.
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Old 10-27-2021, 09:49 AM   #157
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it's not. I took a spare microsquirt to MM in case of issues-I didn't have any.
adjusted the kickdown some more this morning and found a gnarly fuel leak (return from the rail was leaking pretty good). You may be wondering how you can miss such a thing, and the answer is.. well it was and wasn't.. I've noticed cranking the car up lately that it has a fuel-y smell to it, but the breather goes to a powerade bottle in the front and also stinks... so I attributed it to that... and on the occasion I've had the hood up with the car either cold or running, didn't notice. it hasn't been up very often though in that configuration, so I didn't notice until this morning when I not only had the hood up right after starting the car, but was in the general area to adjust the kickdown and try and squeeze some more life out of the ol aw71.

I was successful on both fronts this morning, in fixing the leak (that no lie is probably over a gallon of fuel per tank, it was a healthy burn your car down kinda leak ). I did wonder why my econ dropped off the last tank, but attributed that to having a heavy foot and driving around town.
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Old 10-27-2021, 10:23 AM   #158
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Can you use the existing LH2.4 TPS just to detect idle for idle control? (It's also nice to see in the logs, even if it's just on/off.)
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Old 10-27-2021, 10:51 AM   #159
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I haven't tried that, but I reckon you could. I did toy with the idea a while back but never really got around to testing it out. would rather the full 0-5v sweep anyway so I can do other things, but that could resolve some of the idle challenges
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Old 11-01-2021, 07:17 PM   #160
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Small things that (hopefully) have big impacts in the overall experience:

adjusted base idle to around 800 rpms hot (idle is set at 900 in the ms), it was down around 400. this allows me to set the closed idle valve value such that "closed" at temp it will idle juuuust under 900rpms (yes, cheating). if I had a tps I could then set idle adaptive timing to finish up the rest of the story, not that it idles poorly now (but not being able to get a good closed-loop setting, it's always in closed loop idle it seems).

replaced the clamps on the fuel return line.. after tightening up the top one last week, the bottom one decided at some point it wanted to join in the fun and was dumping fuel this morning. greeeaat. snugged it up for the trip to daycare, and replaced both clamps this afternoon. much tighter. Took a few minutes and logged the car driving around the neighborhood and up the road a little, to see if/where I need to make adjustments to get things in-scope for ego feedback to work the way it ought to. Car really runs quite pleasantly, it will be a good bit of fun with the ipd turbo cam, but all of the 'under the curve' tuning I've done while periodically messing with it on the way to and from daycare has paid dividends in the overall feel and relative smoothness. crisper shifting from the transmission, a decent e-fan (looking at a 16in derale, 2400cfm, should be able to get it to fit in the shroud with some trimming), and the aforementioned cam swap should round this out nicely.

also got the foam for the headliner, need to track down some appropriate adhesive and fabric.. probably going to be a thanksgiving project if I'm honest, and something interesting and grey (cloth, preferably) for the front seats that has some bolstering should round that out. need to drum up a sub and make an enclosure that fits the spare tire well I reckon (shouldn't be that hard), or just use the small sealed box I've already got... may do that in the mean time either way.. oughta be a good starting point for the stereo.
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Old 11-01-2021, 07:23 PM   #161
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So after all the dyno research, and assuming that fab work is free/negligible in terms of time invested, would you put a Garrett core down low or up front, or use a DO88 stock location core? This assumes either the -91 or 92+ formats and A/C is functional.
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Old 11-01-2021, 09:34 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
So after all the dyno research, and assuming that fab work is free/negligible in terms of time invested, would you put a Garrett core down low or up front, or use a DO88 stock location core? This assumes either the -91 or 92+ formats and A/C is functional.
kinda depends on power goals. I'd say for a moderate setup (350-400ish maybe) the ease of install for an npr/do88 is fine. putting the intercooler out front isn't a bad idea and doesn't generally cause issues as long as care is taken with ducting and sealing (see also, evo's), and you'd have a hard time putting something like the big garrett core anywhere but out front. There are any number of ways to solve this issue, I wouldn't mind testing the blue car's intercooler against some of these other ones, but that would be a challenge. might almost be easier to figure out how to hook them up on the blue car and just use it with the test coolers hanging out the bottom. May contemplate trying that one day.
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Old 12-11-2021, 08:47 PM   #163
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been a bit, of course I haven't done a whole lot to the car other than drive it. Finally took/made the time to work on it this weekend. so far, got the tps adapted and installed (and now I'll find the yoshifab adapter that I have laying around somewhere... oh well), flipped the idle over to that, looking forward to having all that stuff working the way I really want.. it wasn't bad but there was that last little bit that was missing.

this will also let me run ecu controlled boost (ran the wires for that too... going to play with a couple different valves because why not.. got a pierburg off an R, and the venerable MAC valve that's served me well on a number of installs), so that'll be cool. I need to drop the fuel tank as well, and fix the sender :grumble:

Couple other odds and ends left to deal with--transmission (new one is apart on the bench, will probably put that together tomorrow as well.. it looked fabulous on the inside, so I'll just replace seals, put the better frictions in, and let it ride with a new filter).

I have a feeling the rear end is not in good shape (no, I didn't do it.. I don't think), but I'm going to ignore that for a bit. when Sam gets the replacement cam from IPD I'll take some time and do that swap, and that should round out the performance mods for a few months at least. (really anything beyond this will require some serious thought given to the transmission side of things.. and as much as it pains me I would probably make the jump to a 4L60 unless one of the newer cooler 8 speeds becomes easier to control)
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Old 12-12-2021, 11:59 AM   #164
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Not sure if it's dyno worthy, but the 4 port MAC valves are intersting too. You need a 2 port wastegate actuator on the turbo to do that, but it's kinda neat. I'm running one of those on my 16v car and the ability to pressurize the backside of the actuator is helpful for forcing quick spool and reaching places pretty far above the spring setting.
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Old 01-02-2022, 02:47 PM   #165
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^ yeah, I need to get one to play with on the gold car I reckon, although currently it's riding the pine.


Soo BPU failed me (I thought) xmas week.. I moved it under the carport ahead of heavy rain, and when I went out to run some errands the next day, it wouldn't start. (it was cold-ish, figured it was my poor cold start tune). tried again the next day, still no dice.. so I grabbed the laptop, aaaand no rpm signal. dammit. Fine. Ordered parts, didn't need it for a week or so (was out of town, spreading covid far and wide). popped the hood yesterday to replace the sensor and discovered that I've been visited by some sort of rodent. on the carport. ****er chewed the wiring for the sensor, then chewed on misc. rubber lines (couple chew marks here, couple there) sampled the wiring on one of my coils. At the moment it appears little else was gnawed on.

Replaced the sensor, car cranked right up. yay. Rpm drops out at 1600. Boo. I got the bogicord sensor from fcp rather than the actual oem sensor (regretting that now I reckon), and I'm curious what/why it would do this. at the moment I have little more info than it's missing the tooth right before the missing teeth. it's there at 1500, and vanishes at 1600 lol.

Also warranteed the stereo, new one doesn't play sound either (DAMMIT) so I guess the door panels are coming back off to review potential shorts. Second heater core has been ordered, we'll see what these are all about. first one was pictured as copper(and cost a premium over the rest), but was delivered as plastic ****, so.. not having a good go at it right now with parts.
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Old 01-03-2022, 10:45 AM   #166
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Old 01-06-2022, 11:44 PM   #167
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dammit. self ownage is the worst. started troubleshooting the 1600 rpm dropout, fully prepared and ready to condemn this brand new sensor. turns out, after checking everything and getting ready to pull it out in favor of another old sensor, I didn't get the bolt snug. sensor was loose. :-/. (make no mistake, the bolt was tight in the threads, but not tight against the sensor)

popped the door panels off, got the stereo working again.. something got mashed somewhere. I'll take better precautions next time it stops playing music, but for now I need the car back on the road. trans replacement to commence possibly this weekend.
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Old 01-20-2022, 02:37 PM   #168
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news and updates (quick vid to follow)
got the rebuilt aw-71L installed, seems to be working well, may need some more kickdown massaging, but aside from that, crisp shifts.
Did a compression test yesterday (in troubleshooting a sudden appearance of coolant under the car), numbers were pretty good considering how loud the engine is.. 150-150-140-150,
plugs look good as well.

need to install springs and then cam, but I'm going to get in a little dyno time before that just to see where things are at this point, as it feels much better than it did back in September and I wanna know if it actually is, or I've just settled into it (lol)
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