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240 Butt Cheek/Wheel Arch Repair

I use the Eastwood stuff too. Just be sure to do the welding first as I'm not so sure the metal cleans up well after coating with that stuff. A good quality seam sealer for the seam of your patch repairs is a good idea. Will help prevent water getting into the edge of your repairs.

For sure. I try to take these jobs one step at a time. I use Eastwood seam sealer as well. I will typically apply weld, seam seal, rust converter, top coat, and undercoating in that order. It's how the factory appeared to do it minus the rust converter, so I figured I couldn't go wrong.

By the way, I did a little more prep and some "CAD" last night. I also tried to buy some 20G sheet steel but Lowes was out. Will 22G be okay? It's pretty flimsy, but I figure that once its bent up and welded, it should be solid.

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I realized that I got a bit ahead of myself by not waiting until my arch came in. I think it would be best to get that roughed in before I try to fill in the back side. I want to make as few of cuts on the painted pieces as possible so that there are fewer seams to make presentable. To me it doesn't matter if I have pretty wheel wells. Those are second priority!
 
This wheel arch is crap, but it was to be slightly expected. See my boot just chilling under it? It's not lifting the part up. The panel is just so warped that I can fit my boot under there. I'm glad that I don't need the door side of it, because that section would not work well at all. I have my work cut out for me. At least I don't have to grind off a tough layer of paint that a lot of panel stampers use.

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I've done my share with repair panels, usually Klokkerholm. Not big fan of them. Next time I'll find Volvo panels or cut from rust free car.

I hope I don't ever have to this again, but if it do it won't be with aftermarket parts. It's not turning out pretty, but I'm really just trying to keep the thing respectable for another few years. Here's where I'm at.

I cut a section off the patch panel because I don't want to dig deep enough to replacing all that metal.

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I then scored it along the line I plan to weld with a putty knife so that I know where to cut again.

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It worked out really well.

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From here, things started going downhill.

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I warped the crap of the patches. I also have little pinholes left between welds. I tried re-welding them closed which was a bad idea. I ended up blowing through the metal and then tried to fill those holes. It was a slippery slope, and I eventually gave up. I'm not exactly sure what I initially did wrong, but I don't have the patience to figure it out. I hate this. I'll pay a pro to do it next time.
 
Don't worry about the pin holes. Use some short strand fiberglass bondo to fill and get it somewhat flat. Then use regular bondo for the finish coat and get things flat and smooth.
 
Don't worry about the pin holes. Use some short strand fiberglass bondo to fill and get it somewhat flat. Then use regular bondo for the finish coat and get things flat and smooth.

Thanks for the tip! I'll check that out. I almost forgot to ask. Is there any recommendations on what double stick tape to use to restick the trim? I was about ask about close 213 paint matches, but I actually just found some Volvo 213 touch up cans for sale, so I'm going to try that.
 
I just bought some seam sealer, undercoating, and fiberglass reinforced bondo. I should have enough leftover rust converter to get through this job. Here's another update. I was hoping to finish all the metal work before the weekend, but I had to remove the shock and shock mounting pin which took some time. All I have left is welding in the patch for above the shock which is already cut and bent.

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I finished this patch, but I'm showered and not going back out there for a picture. lol
 
By the way, yes that's a hole drilled through both the original metal and the patch. Sometimes the patch doesn't want to lay right on top of the original metal no matter how well you bend or cut it, so I drive them together with a small nut and bolt. Then I weld and remove the nut and bolt. I don't know if this is a common way of doing it, but it's how I've done it on several occasions.
 
Yes, that is the correct technique to hold the panels till you weld. They make a set of pins so you can hang a large panel with a whole bunch of them before spot welding. Well done!
 
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You can use Tec screws to line things up. Then weld the small hole it leaves behind. For the trim use only 3M trim tape. VHB, ( very high bond). Not only does it come in different widths but also different thicknesses. Don't go too thick then the trim will stick out too much.
 
Yes, that is the correct technique to hold the panels till you weld. They make a set of pins so you can hang a large panel with a whole bunch of them before spot welding. Well done!

Cool! Glad I didn't miss something. Thanks for the encouragement.

You can use Tec screws to line things up. Then weld the small hole it leaves behind. For the trim use only 3M trim tape. VHB, ( very high bond). Not only does it come in different widths but also different thicknesses. Don't go too thick then the trim will stick out too much.

Thanks for the tip. I will search for that. I can't seem to go wrong with 3M.
 
I was bummed by the email I received today. Apparently the paint I ordered does not get shipped to the US, so I'm out of luck. It's kinda stupid that the Maryland based website had it listed in USD, but whatever. I'll have to stop by a paint store and see what they can do for me. The only update I have is that the lightly rusted stuff is coated in rust encapsulator. I will plan to seam seal my joints tomorrow, but I've been coming home from work with some nasty headaches. We'll see. The desire to get this car back on the road and the Camaro off the road is very motivating!
 
Bring the gas door or something to your local auto paint supplier. They will work from the paint code and then adjust til it's matched.

Good work so far, I think it's going to come out ****in mint!
 
Bring the gas door or something to your local auto paint supplier. They will work from the paint code and then adjust til it's matched.

I tried this with a few local shops and they were all very resistant to the idea, claiming it doesn't actually work all that well. Of course, none of them could mix my (vintage) paint code either.

Ended up buying paint from VP Autoparts.
 
Thanks for the kind words.

I went to three different stores yesterday. Sherwin Williams apparently doesn't do small batch automotive spray cans. My local Napa stopped selling touch up stuff because people kept stealing it, but he recommended a little automotive finishes store in the industrial park that I never would have known about otherwise. They were able to help me based on my paint code. They said they could make as many cans as I wanted, but it would $44 each. That's more than I was wanting to spend considering I found a safety blue at Wal-Mart that actually looks remarkably close when wet. I'm thinking I'm going to buy that after work, spray some scrap and see how it dries. If it's close enough for my taste then I'll run with it.

Update: Seam sealer is drying. Sorry I forgot to take pictures. I should have applied the filler while I was out there, but oh well. That's tonight's job.
 
Just kidding. Per recommendation in my other thread, I'm buying paint supplies through automotivetouchup.com. It looks like they have all sorts of stuff I wish I had earlier!
 
I guess it's that way with paint shops if you have an old niche car like a volvo nowadays. I'm sure if it was a 69 Camaro they wouldn't have any issues making paint for you. lol. Plus the paint for the camaro would be $14 a can. You are close to done!
 
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