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Anyone an LH2.2 Master?? Im pretty stuck.

VolvoEmpire

New member
Joined
Dec 6, 2015
Location
Omaha Ne
My friend and I (fellow t bricker) were chasing down a few issues on my plus T (87 244 b230ft w/5spd m47 manual Ignition=ezk117 ecu= lh2.2 541) the other day. I had replaced the clogged up crank case breather and removed the intake manifold in the process, as well as put in turbo injectors from an 850. When we got everything plugged back in we realized there was a no start due to no power to fuel pumps or injectors. The system had previously operated the engine correctly sooooo... ...

I thought I had everything plugged back in correctly, but the no fuel no injector situation leaves me to think something is incorrect. . . but what?

Fuel pump can be bypassed to run, but injectors still don't fire. Starts fine and very smooth on starting fluid, timing seems perfects.

Where should I start troubleshooting/is there a way to get signal diagnosis/or test the ecu to see if its working properly?

He would like me to get my dirty brick out of his driveway.
 
Go to Volvowiringdiagrams.com and download the lh2.0 green book and run through the diagnostic procedure. It takes about an hour and helps if you have a buddy.
 
Since it's a plus tee and your added the EZK ignition I'd check the added wiring. Must be a wiring problem I'd think. Did you make sure the grounds on the fuel rail bolts are good? That is where the ECU grounds. Motor is grounded? That 2.2 distributor thingy working?
 
Are those injectors compatible without doing a resistor mod? AFAIK (what I am assuming are orange tops) require that in order to run on lh2.2. There is a ground on the driver side of the engine block as well that is a bit hidden. Might check that.
 
Are you getting spark? If no check the hall sensor wiring coming off the distributor, you might have busted the insulation off the wires moving stuff around in there.
 
Hello every one, I'm the other one working on this.

The wire that gives LH a tach signal is under the intake manifold. I bet you forgot it.

I'm pretty sure that we got this one plugged in . . . BUT . . . . we did accidentally plug this into what i believe is the blue test plug first. it's up against the fire wall due to relocation/extension of the AMM plug wires. Same male/female plug type. Would that cause the ECU to burn up?

The game plan for now is to pull the intake again and verify all the connections as we put it back together again.

The injectors that I put in it to get a base line are Bosch Red tops from a ford t-bird turbo coupe.
 
What you do is get a wiring diagram then make sure the fuel computer has power, ground, and signal in and signal out.

How does one measure signal in and signal out?
 
Wiring diagrams for the ECU have been attained. But I am just working with your basic multi meter. No noid light to test injector pulse.
 
Do you have a test light? Clip to battery positive, tip to injector negative, blink while crank?

LED test light could verify lower voltage pulses such as 5v square wave or low voltage AC pulses.

What type of signal comes from the Chrysler box to the LH box is what I ask myself....and what tool is best to read It?
 
Nope, after all the head scratching. Turns out when someone asks if you checked the fusses and you say you did. Go check them again. The main 30amp had blown at a hard to see spot. Good times 10/10 would do it again.
 
Ha Ha Ha.
Glad you guys figured out. I will keep in mind about tach and fuses. Since you know... LH 2.2 brotha.
 
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