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240 separating tie rod end from knuckle

sloopy

2-digit whp
Joined
May 25, 2020
Location
Dallas, Texas
Is it supposed to be ridiculously hard to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle? I have a c-clamp-like tool that's supposed to help with this, but I can't get it in a good position on the quick steer roll correctors. I have the tie rod end attached to the quickest setting and I want to move it to the middle one. I'm giving it the pb-blaster plus time treatment at the moment. Can I use some sort of industrial vibrator to loosen this thing? Was I supposed to put anti-sieze on the tapered shaft?
 
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I think you might have to defibrillate the flange valve and restore the coating. You gotta pic?

Do not tighten tapered fittings until the nut stops turning.......
 
Is it supposed to be ridiculously hard to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle?
Not usually, unless it's been in there for years, or tightened WAY too much initially.

Either use the proper removal tool, or with the original nut (or a suitable replacement) ON the stud and unscrewed just far enough to protect the end of the threads, and the arm supported (got a jackstand?), a solid whack with a decent sized hammer should pop it out. If the nut is a "castle" type with a cotter pin, flip it upside-down first.
Can I use some sort of industrial vibrator to loosen this thing?
Is there an "Adult Fun" store nearby?

Was I supposed to put anti-sieze on the tapered shaft?
HELL NO!!!!!!!!!!!
All that will do is let the taper go in so far that the nut bottoms out, and/or stretch the hole so big that it will never be snug again.

Maybe see if you can find/borrow another style that's designed so it can fit in the middle of arms (what you have) or come in from the side. Here's a couple of likely candidates:

17af1324-cd30-447f-a07c-da60ae523e36_1.5980224968db75ff149e2fe802c1376d.jpeg


11931903_ptl_w83022_pri_larg.jpg


You gotta pic?

Probably something like this:

IMG_93892_540x.jpg


Or maybe the earlier "straighter" version.
 
The original steering arm is in the way making it impossible to hit the nut with a hammer. If I disconnect the qsrc from the strut housing, I get no support and risk flopping the whole thing over violently. Yes, I have version 2 like you posted. I have that first tool and a few other similar tools. But actually that second tool looks very interesting! I can reach in from the side with that and won't have this issue with the original steering arm being in the way
 
I usually heat the arm (where the shaft goes through) with a torch - being careful to not burn the boot.
Sometimes I heat the stud too. After it's good and hot, I'll put ice on the stud (to try and cool the stud only).

Then whack the arm on opposing sides of the tapered shaft with BFHs simultaneously.

Sometimes takes a few tries, but generally works pretty well. For me anyway.
 
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