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Old 06-17-2022, 12:37 AM   #1
HiSPL
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Default Need a MAF for LH2.2. Aftermarket or stick with OEM?

Are there any aftermarket MAF's worth buying? Mine is dead it seems. Not a great time to be needing a 500 dollar part.
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Old 06-17-2022, 02:40 AM   #2
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Time to hit the JY or chat with SwedishIron.....

Or.... buy aftermarket ones til ya get one that works... Can you even buy a new OEM one still?
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Old 06-17-2022, 06:04 AM   #3
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I have one that's been sitting in a box for 25+ years

make me a solid offer and it yours

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=349080
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Old 06-17-2022, 01:11 PM   #4
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Old 06-20-2022, 01:40 AM   #5
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I have a near new 'known good' NOS one too I think as I think I'll probably be putting my last LH2.2 shop beater wagon up for sale (lots of friends & relatives have gotten a lot of use out of it, but time to pair down/had a good run/no more need) & only have K-jets, D-jets, Motronic (P80/960), PRV & Diseasel Volvos remain 'in the family', thereafter...

The fuel injection corp, python & programa 'rebuilt' ones have all been months & never really quite worked as well as factory to DOA?
The China were DOA at first, I got a china AMM at great expense. I think Bosch still does the W.Germany exchange for OEM but it's $280-500, ya...

I take it the car runs 'fine' in 'limp' mode with it unplugged (idles smooth, can be gimped smoothly at 20% throttle or less, starts cold and maybe hunts a little at idle before stabilizing, cycles on the 02 sensor once it warms up & coolant temp comes up a little idling with the AMM unplugged, fuel pressure is right on/injectors spray clean/no vac leaks?) & you've done the art benstein / cleanflame trap output baseline voltage test & slight voltage rise waving your hand across it or output voltage test idling in another healthy car

Did you pressure wash the engine bay or go thru a big puddle with the belly pan off, got a bad seal on the wiring harness, pre-heat stuck open, or oil or bunch of tar balls contaminating it from a gross air filter or blowby motor chuffing a big cloud of oil into the accordion hose?

Said accordion hose isn't rubbed thru/split, right? Lawl, 240 motor mounts/chafed accordion hoses lawl...
Rubber hoses aren't split/too dried out in the Tejas sun? (they last pretty good on non-blowby oil leaky motors on cared for garaged cars, honestly, even in AZ but they're 'that old' now).
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Old 06-21-2022, 12:18 AM   #6
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Yeah. Car runs well with the maf unplugged. Pig rich, but it runs smooth.

Airbox preheat is deleted, routed to the front. Accordion hose is fine. This car is actually in really nice shape. Had a good filter in it. Now has a new filter. My motor mounts are pretty shot. I have some diesel mounts to put in it but haven't done it yet. My coolant temp sensor is probably reading too low. The (bypassed) guage only gets up to about 1/4. I need to put a laser on it to see what the actual temp is.

Car had been running great. but about a week before I started to smell it running rich during start up. I'm guessing it was just time.
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Old 06-21-2022, 12:25 AM   #7
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It idles rich with the AMM unplugged in limp mode fully warmed up?
It should start/run smooth with no AMM & cycle on the 02 sensor in a timely fashion.
If it runs rich with it unplugged warmed up, keep looking IDK?

Shouldn't run rich or rough warmed up in limp mode with the AMM unplugged entirely on a sorted LH2.2 car, just only 20% throttle/takes forever to get to 60mph in the flat (it is possible/have to hold gears forever patiently & clutch take up *may* be challenging on manual models). I've driven countless cars home 60+ miles no AMM at 60mph that ran tip top otherwise...it's...doable...

I take it the temp faker is bypassed so the gauge reads accurately or as you say kinda double check it with the infrared gun or resistance values on the cluster pin & at the spade compared to the book vs. temp chart for that quality VDO temp gauge sender (same Ohm range as many other VDO senders but the way it seats in the Volvo head isn't used on many USA market VWs or Benzs or BMWs of the era w/VDO instruments...)...IDK?
Thermostat?
Voltage stabilizer for temp & fuel gauge?
Wiring?
Temp gauge got cooked or sender got cooked?

LH2.2 is done enriching the mix once you're at 180F coolant temp all else working right/fast warm up time & sensor immersed in coolant/no air bubbles. (rare on the redblock tractor/no biggie if the t-stat bleed hole is oriented right & it gets run up to warm heater loop shut & then opened at 2000rpm or so up and down off idle a bit....they usually bleed easy).

Not trying to be condescending, just checking a car's vitals with the AMM unplugged I'm asking for clarification/what else you've checked is all...

I've gotten 2 DOA Bosch chinesium coolant temp sensors now that almost cost me an engine washing it down.
If the car didn't overheat or cook the thing they seem to last a long long time/indefinitely up here.

Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 06-21-2022 at 12:31 AM..
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Old 06-21-2022, 12:29 AM   #8
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^

I see the Bosch exchange / remanned AMMs in the junkyard from time to time, but unfortunately the chinesium glass ceiling is lower than the out the door price at the junkyards so I don't pick them.
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Old 06-21-2022, 12:34 AM   #9
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^

I see the Bosch exchange / remanned AMMs in the junkyard from time to time, but unfortunately the chinesium glass ceiling is lower than the out the door price at the junkyards so I don't pick them.
QFT. Upstanding citizen owned with knowedgeable indy mech with Bosch made in W.Germany exchange or Bosch white label AMMs are few and far between, but they still wash up in the JYs once in a while, tho it's mostly '89+ LH2.4+ models & few fresh kills with nice quality parts trickling in the JYs, anymore...


Gotten some chinesium & rebuilt doodoo in the blue box too by now under Fraud Mo Co. american business model ownership & now spun off Geely...lord help us


Old cars/parts no longer used in critical applications or subject to high volume quality controls or extended warranties on current or near current models...

Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 06-21-2022 at 12:57 AM..
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Old 06-21-2022, 06:57 PM   #10
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:53 PM   #11
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The best replacement parts I've had were from my used hoard. When I needed a good engine coolant sensor for lh2.4 I had to get one from one of the engines in the barn. The 'new' one I bought was completely the wrong resistance.
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Old 06-21-2022, 09:22 PM   #12
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Did you locate a used one? I have several tested good units from when I did the LH2.2 conversion on my Fiat
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Old 06-21-2022, 09:22 PM   #13
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I have 2 used genuine in my FS thread.
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Old 06-21-2022, 10:05 PM   #14
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The best replacement parts I've had were from my used hoard. When I needed a good engine coolant sensor for lh2.4 I had to get one from one of the engines in the barn. The 'new' one I bought was completely the wrong resistance.
Same & it almost cost me an engine washing it down intermittently…:grr:
‘Upgraded’ to used ‘known good’ & Bosch exchange minty when last available…

Used &/or dusty shelf parts from 1998 & prior or that FraudMoCo didn’t get around to killing off sometime in the early 00s or replacing with chinesium In the new Geely era…
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Old 06-22-2022, 01:54 AM   #15
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I bought the one smoothdhrban had for sale. Haven’t plugged it in yet. Stay tuned I guess! Lol
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Old 06-22-2022, 02:53 PM   #16
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Time to hit the JY or chat with SwedishIron.....
That is correct. I have Bosch Remanufactured in Germany 007 or 016 AMMs for sale!
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Old 06-23-2022, 01:41 AM   #17
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^ ...and they work great without breaking the bank. Great seller; I wouldn't overpay for an AMM from elsewhere.
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