oil for high rpm use

Goodday,

Well, The dissapointment left and im back on working on my high rpm na screamer again. Last time i'd had in on the dyno i started losing oil pressure. Before it went on the dyno i switched from a mineral 15-40 to a stronger sythetic 20-50. Not sure if the oil is to blame but i ran the engine for houers on the 15-40, All fine. Switched to the 20-50 and now my oil pump sh*t the bed. was expacting to find the O-rings pushed out at the pressure tube but instead i found the oil pump gears had some how eaten into the housing and the pressure releave valve increadebly stuck open.

So i've got a different oil pump that'll get some slight porting in the boddy and now figuring out what oil to use that'll have enough protection for the agressive cam and is thin enough for the pump to handle at 8250 rpm.

What are you guys running and than most interested in the people that rev there engines out a bit?

uhm.. off hand I don't recall, probably rotella 15w40

The pressure and loads from the higher viscosity oil is what ate the pump up. Maybe the oil was too cold in the pan?

I?ve always ran either a 30 or 40 weight multi viscosity full synthetic oil. Mobile 1, liquimoly, motul.
Never a problem.

Oil viscosity is generally determined by bearing clearances and temperature. No need to run a heavy oil on a high rpm engine unless the oil is getting very very hot.

I only rev the turbo to 7k. For oil I've always used either M1 or Rotella T6. I use a thick M1 at 15-50 and haven't had any issues. It's the M1 with the gold cap so you know it's the best.

From all the single cylinder race engines I've built, Motul 300V was by far the best performing oil that we tested. I never got the chance to test Liqui Moly, but I can say that 300V will go past sustained 280F temps and still hold together in a race engine. It's also a very high "octane" oil so it has less of an impact on detonation caused by oil in the cylinder. Generally diesel oils are the lowest octane and can promote detonation.

https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products?facets[application]=140&facets[range]=25&page=2

>i ran the engine for houers on the 15-40, All fine. Switched to the 20-50 and now my oil pump sh*t the bed.

Then why'd you switch?

Thanks for the reply's quys.

I moved from the mineral 15-40 to 20-50 because the KL-racing camshaft devoleped some slight signs of wear within little runtime. My brother was running a 5-40 oil on his car with ipd turbo cam and saw the same thing happend to his camshaft. After he switched to the kendall gt-1 20-50 with liquid titanium the engine sounded heathyer and cam didn't show anay further wear marks. So i thought it would be a good idea to switch over to the 20-50 also..

Spoke with our oil supplyer and he recomended switching over to the fully synthetic 5w50. I won't run into to much detail but the oil is also a 50 weight but it's easyer pumpable than the 20-50 and even the 15-40 i ran before. It is used for example in 911 race cars, And after some searching i found out the subaru guys had great succes with it also.

For now i decided to take the dremel to the new oil pump and smoothen the passages a bit.

I'm aware the oilpump failure shouldn't be related to the oil switch but nevertheless i'll be giving the 5w50 a go and see what happends.

Ps, We only use kendall

To be continued

Just to clarify things for a few guys: The W stands for winter, not weight. Very common myth that they use even in movies ala fast and furious

The 15-50 M1 works just fine in the winter here. Had an aftermarket cam in both engines for many years without any wear issues. Valve train is nice and quiet. I put in new hushers with the cams as well.

dl242gt said:

The 15-50 M1 works just fine in the winter here. Had an aftermarket cam in both engines for many years without any wear issues. Valve train is nice and quiet. I put in new hushers with the cams as well.

Click to expand...

Good to know. the 15-50 you're using is a ful-synthetic?

SkeTchy-MechAniC said:

Good to know. the 15-50 you're using is a ful-synthetic?

Click to expand...

https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/na-us-mobil-1-15w50

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That Valvoline is good, too. Long ago in the past my goto oil was Kendall GT1 but the places around here including wallyworld don't carry their products. The GT1 was green so you know it was good for your engine and good for you. Plus they had the cool fingers up logo.

Yrs ago we all ran Kendall GT1 especially in engines that ran on menthol. But remembered they pulled the green stuff out of it. Everyone had a fit about it and claimed it wasnt as good anymore. There is one parts store nearby that still sells it. But it was good stuff, it seemed to stick to the parts and was hard to wash off during a rebuild.

So is 10w-30 too thin on a B230 turbo? I just got my 240 and am about to change the oil for the first time and never bothered to ask the previous owner what oil he puts in it. I rev my car out to about 6500 rpm. And it's going to be 90 degrees plus here all summer. Are there any advantages to a thinner oil?

Just finished up the oilpump, Replaced the rod bearing while i was at it but they were looking fine. Spend a couple of hours with the dremel to port the new oil pump, put a thin washer under the pressure relief spring and made washers to prevent the pressure tube seals from pressing out.

Removed the sparkplugs and disconnected the injectors and wile doing that it made 4bar pressure on the sarter motor. Ofcourse this is with cold engine oil and 18*c outside. idleling oil pressure is roughly 5 bar and revving to 4500 makes it go up slightly to 5.5bar.


Engine sounds healty & seems better than it's ever been.

I'd recomment the oil to everyone (Kendall Elite SRS 5W50)