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Grandpa's sleeper "1990 740 tic"

so I noticed I was slipping a bit out at highway speeds so I decided i would do the accumulator mod to the trans did it things went smoothly shifted super fast but alas my trans was to far gone at that point it wouldn't stay in overdrive would just slip so i got an aw71 to put in wile I went threw the aw71l and strengthened it up to handle some more power. I know that the acum mod is one thing to do but I would imagine that you would need heavier duty clutch packs for it and not sure what else hoping someone can point me in the right direction or maybe someone knows a trans shop in the portland metro area that does good trans work?
 
Well, I've been driving this thing around now with no problems thing drives like a new car. Until I was driving down i5 just after the i205 intersection going north and it lost power for a second then came back on kept doing that so I took the exit I was going to anyway and it died and wouldn't start back up so I coasted off the highway and down onto a side road right by a gas station I was pretty close to empty so figured id get some gas. still no start so I called for my insurance roadside assistance which is 24hr 7 days a week and it took them 2 days to get a tow company to come tow my car.

got the car home and started doing some testing had spark had fuel had injector pulse no codes disconnected maf nothing worked so I dug out the dvom and started checking things.
ran the self-diagnosis with the diagnostic connecter inside the engine bay and everything was working as it should injector idle control motor EGR cold start injector. was getting spark and fuel. I pulled the fuel just for ****s and giggles and every injector fell apart the pintles were sitting in the manifold with the spacers and seals. fixed that by buying new pintles and seals. all injectors had even resistance. wasn't high or low. I didn't check for spray pattern as I was pressed for time so I put it back together.

The throttle switch was clicking as it should but I checked the voltage no Bueno, had another one solved that problem still no start.

I checked the fuel pressure wasn't even close to what it should be, it was like 15psi and tested the fpr with a vacuum pump it worked no fuel smell either from it. checked voltage to tank pump it was getting required voltage ground was ok as well so the tank pump was dead no noise at all. so I figured since they both looked original and replaced them both with new ones. I also changed the fuel filter and got a new fuel line between the pump and filter.

I also replaced the rotor and cap because when I took the cap off the center electrode was non-existant and the rotor had like 1.08kohms resistance at the 20k range and if I check for continuity it has none.?????

I also bought a new relay for the fuel pumps. still, no start hrmm started cussing and swearing at it, I cranked it over and it started and ran for like an hr sitting there I could rev it fine burned rubber holding the car in place with the brake. so I buttoned everything back up. shut it off

started it and it cranked right up and started. so got cleaned up and came back down to go do some work on a friend's quad and made about a block from home and it dies won't start. called my friend to come to tow me back to my place **** the roadside assistance I paid for lol wasn't going to go threw that again.

so I was pretty frustrated with coming back to it 2 days later and the fuel pumps weren't turning on. hmmm, put the old relay back in vroom started, and ran great except if I got on it it would buck and detonate ran fine as long as I stayed out of full-throttle or any kind of hard acceleration. so checked the wiring at the relay it's fine and clean doesn't look like it got hot. now I tonight I was out on a job and started the car to come home it dies and won't start I messed with the wiring harness by the coil and it starts up and runs so I drive it home and went out to go to the store it won't start. no spark at the plugs. check for a spark at the coil bright blue spark. brand new cap and rotor so I pulled them off rotor has 1.05kohms at the 20k range and no continuity. so off to the parts store tomorrow to get another one.

I have decided I am going to go to coil over plugs screw this cap and rotor bull****. cant get any parts that last more than a few days anymore its frustrating. I don't know why volvo kept it the distributor doesn't even have a hall sensor in it. or a pickup coil. computer controlled timing so why keep a substandard system on a much better ecu and ignition computer system.

bleh rant over :)
 
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so the autozone rotor I bought this morning lasted all of a few hours before it was dead. so I spent the cash on a bosch and my god the difference in quality is obvious. this one has low resistance with continuity. even though it died once on the way home but it started back up right away. probably the AutoZone distributor cap has an random issue. not really interested in spending the 100 dollars for a bosch cap think ill park it till i can get all the parts to get coil packs setup with wasted spark or something.
 
Howdy from another white Sedan owner, and Clackamas adjacent 740/940 DIYer!

Well, I've been driving this thing around now with no problems thing drives like a new car. Until I was driving down i5 just after the i205 intersection going north and it lost power for a second then came back on kept doing that so I took the exit I was going to anyway and it died and wouldn't start back up so I coasted off the highway and down onto a side road right by a gas station I was pretty close to empty so figured id get some gas. still no start so I called for my insurance roadside assistance which is 24hr 7 days a week and it took them 2 days to get a tow company to come tow my car...

Going over what you wrote and replaced had me recall similar stuff that ended up being resolved by this:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=265164

Crank Position Sensor, which likes to get fussy when the temps start lightly rising. The jacketing breaks down over the years and causes intermittent non-starting scenarios. Might be worth throwing one of these at it and reviewing the results. IPD usually has 'em in stock, and it's worth it to grab a new one versus a mystery JY pull.

Hope to see ya on the road!
 
Howdy from another white Sedan owner, and Clackamas adjacent 740/940 DIYer!



Going over what you wrote and replaced had me recall similar stuff that ended up being resolved by this:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=265164

Crank Position Sensor, which likes to get fussy when the temps start lightly rising. The jacketing breaks down over the years and causes intermittent non-starting scenarios. Might be worth throwing one of these at it and reviewing the results. IPD usually has 'em in stock, and it's worth it to grab a new one versus a mystery JY pull.

Hope to see ya on the road!

hey, yeah I did get a new cps still had the problem what I found was I had 3 different fp relays each one would fail and cause a different type of failure one would be no spark one would be no fuel one completely failed and wouldn't work at all. that one was the new one I got from an online retailer so I went and spent the money on a Volvo one and so far so good hasn't died yet. I can swap out my old cps and the new one and it runs fine with either now the new maf I bought is bad it causes the car to buck and try and throw you like a bull when you get on it more than half throttle old one car runs like a champ. the old one is bosch new one is some unknown cheapo brand from oriellys you get what you pay for with parts for these.

I am still kinda baffled by why I went threw all those distributor rotors until I bought a bosch one once again crap parts that quality control is nonexistent.

there are a few of us out here in Clackamas one guy has a right-hand drive I think it's an 87 740 super low miles beautiful car even though it's red.
 
word of warning to everyone buying parts for anything from Oriellys their parts supplier "Blue Streak" Is having major issues with QC every part I have bought from them in the last month has been a bad part. the list included 3 chevy 4.3 distributors distributor cap also for the bad distributor's 3 AMM's for my Volvo 2 ignition coils for a chevy 4.3. 2 CPS for my Volvo for now, I won't do any business with Oriellys not even for my business wich sucks because I had a nice discount on parts. It just isn't worth it to even bother with getting parts from them when. every single premium new part is broken.

the 3rd AMM they gave me on a return when I took it out of the package the screen and retaining ring on the turbo side of it fell out that was the final straw for me if It hadn't done that then I would have nuked my turbo.
The Hours I spent trying to find what was causing the problem and then figuring out it's the brand new part, the really frustrating thing about it is my old bosch AMM had set codes 121 and 322 and it would still run I installed the New AMM and it ran and then I would be driving along and blam it would die and wouldn't start. swap in old bosch vroom vroom drive away. the NEW AMM no codes you floor it it felt like you were riding a bull trying to throw you.
it's a good thing I am a patient person.
none of these parts I have had issues with are remanned these are all brand new parts.
the guy's jaw dropped when he looked at my account In 2 years I've had to return 2 things as defective.
This last month 11 items
Now the 4 distributor rotors from AutoZone I expect that from them Oriellys Ive always had good luck with their parts.

I mean 100% fail rate on newly manufactured parts. that is not acceptable.
 
About the only things I get locally are oil, gloves, and chemicals. I think the only new parts I've bought locally in ten years are spark plugs. Now for my F250 truck we have had some issues with new local parts but overall it's still easy to get good stuff for it locally. But not a Volvo anymore.

Hang in there. It's frustrating but you'll find the venders that are good and provide quality parts.
 
Yeah, I am patient. It is going to be nice having this back to a reliable state.

I did get some t5 injectors and did the resistor bypass so one less thing to go wrong. I am seriously considering going with a standalone. My father uses Holley's sniper for all of his custom old hotrods he has been doing and really is a nice and easy system to get set up and running easily. a bit spendy but nice.
 
Ack!!! my Back!!! so I was driving to get some parts to throw in the parts cannon and shoot them at my car when It died on me at 122nd and Halsey luckily a kind soul whose wife loves old volvos was walking by and he helped me push it off the busy af intersection.

sadly my back has been a problem I am going to go to get some X-rays done I broke it 30 some odd years ago and now I injured it a few weeks ago and have been trying to recover and this damn car keeps breaking down on me. and I end up hurting myself, trying to move it out of traffic.

I am not looking forward to it because when I broke it 30 years ago I fractured l1 and l2 and wedged the disc got luckily only wedged it but this feels like the disc is herniated. and I am the type of person who only goes to the doctor when I absolutely have to. I don't care for them not that doctors are bad people they are just taught that certain things are how its supposed to be.

on a side note during today's broken down episode I was able to diagnose the intermittent dieing problem as being a faulty ECU the noid light comes on with the key but upon cranking no pulse and I have a brand new and several used known good radio suppression relays none of them change the fact the ECU isn't pulsing the injectors and the ECU and EZK both see the brand new crank position sensor.

$5 noid light ftw and fuel pressure test gauge was free. such a huge weight lifted off me just by being able to have the ability to diagnose the issue with proper tools.
I've had my head up my ass due to my back pain that I didn't go out and buy the tools I needed till today. talk about a glutton for self punishment lol.
 
good news received the 954 ECU yesterday And have driven the car for over 3/4 of a tank of gas and she hasn't died or even missed once. now to take it easy so my back can heal.

It really sucks not being able to lift or pull or push anything over ten pounds. doctors orders.
 
so after abusing the crap out of my car insurance roadside assistance having this car towed home no less than 7 times in 2 months at no charge. I found the issue. After diagnosing the entire lh 2.4 system and replacing every single sensor etc because parts cannon's need love to.

I removed the LH 2.4 harness from the engine bay and brought it inside to go over it with a fine tooth comb and lo and behold look at what I found
IMG-20220806-040401.jpg


after finding that I tore open the harness and found this.
IMG-20220806-042025.jpg

so I broke out the soldering station and fixed it up taped and added new harness housing where I could and installed it back in the car and it runs horribly now worse than before. well, it might be that the engine oil is more gas than oil. so I changed it tonight will have to see how it runs tomorrow.
 
that wire was the grey wire to the injectors that is why when it would die the noid light would be bright with the ignition key on and no pulse when cranked. shorted to ground. oh and the turbo decided to take a dump it's been on its way out so time to upgrade the turbo. Oh and I found a megasquirt a guy I went to high school with has one complete sitting in his shop not being used so he said I could have it at a fraction of the cost.
 
Pretty interesting electrical gremlins you have there. Hopefully you get them sorted before they get you, it's infuriating to fight them! The 960 door handle conversion is a nice little touch.
 
Pretty interesting electrical gremlins you have there. Hopefully you get them sorted before they get you, it's infuriating to fight them! The 960 door handle conversion is a nice little touch.

You are correct they were infuriating and frustrating beyond words. it takes a lot of patience and also I finally caved in and got a laptop so I didn't have to drag my lazy ass up 3 flights of stairs to use the USB stick that had the Volvo service manuals. so I was able to narrow it all down to wiring via diagnosing it. but I cannot express how much easier it would have been had a had that damn Volvo st tool it would have taken me at most 1 hr to diagnose anything wrong with the entire LH system with that tool.

sadly not a soul has one on the face of the earth. the Volvo tools distributor laughed at me lol. dealerships just put me on hold to end up hanging up because after 20 mins I knew they weren't coming back.
 
I have a few things that come to mind to say about what I found this weekend installing a 16t turbo and well Ill let the pictures do the talking.
IMG-20220918-172035.jpg

and
IMG-20220918-172105.jpg

3rd one
IMG-20220918-172126.jpg

I obviously found my pinging problem so that's no longer an issue and no more coolant being sucked into the intake. and no oil either. I sadly broke one of the pins off of my KL racing fuel chips so I am going to have to solder one on it shouldn't be that difficult.
so at this point, I am going to rework the cylinder head I have one extra for it laying around get better springs and some mild porting.
going to enjoy driving it for a bit with a properly working turbo lol just stock boost its an entirely different car now to turn it up :).
 
:wtf: that thing is cooked. How does the manifold look?

About the broken chip pin, you could buy a dip28 socket, press the chip into the socket, and bridge the broken leg to the socket with solder. It will get you a fully new set of legs to abuse. I've done it a couple times to repair various dip chips.
 
:wtf: that thing is cooked. How does the manifold look?

About the broken chip pin, you could buy a dip28 socket, press the chip into the socket, and bridge the broken leg to the socket with solder. It will get you a fully new set of legs to abuse. I've done it a couple times to repair various dip chips.

The manifold is ok and that's a great idea about the chip.
thanks for that info.
 
synapse engineering

I have a synapse engineering compressor side valve that is pretty trick its automatic from 5 psi to over 100 psi I was looking at their website and was sad to see all their waste gates are out of stock. I figured I could buy one to match the compressor side I already have but Noooo not anytime soon. It probably just as well that I should focus on all these other things Like adjustable Panhard bar and new rear control arm bushings and getting the mega-squirt all planned out and set up to install. I guess I could just get the bov installed to and get a waste gate to match it when they are in stock agian.
 
so my head gasket decided to leave the chat so I dove into that yesterday. and I was very lucky when I went to start the car to move it into a buddy of mine's carport at his place it hydrauliced on startup to move it into the covered parking. #2 piston no damage was done to the rods as it was on the starter cranking so once I felt it catch I stopped. so took about 6 hrs of work to get that all sorted and she is back running only thing to worry about fixing now is the cruise control. I didn't realize how much I used the cruise control. all in all, I am happy it hydrauliced on start-up and not driving down the road. wheew disaster avoided. 8-)
 
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