Hard-wiring 240T tail lights

fivealive · 02-13-2006, 04:29 PM

Hard-wiring 240T tail lights

NOTE: You don't have to solder to do this. The other option, as discussed in the comments below, is to use female spade connectors on the tabs for the tail light connections. You can either use big spade connectors (which do exist, although they're hard to find) or use a dremel tool to make the tabs small enough for standard spade connectors.

OK, I thought this idea up because my tail lights have a lot of problems. After getting pulled over many times for having a bulb out that just turned out to be a bad connection, I got sick of it. So I pulled out my handy soldering iron and ran wires to all the bulbs in the tail lights to replace that printed-circuit piece of plastic.

Car is a 1981 Volvo 242 GLT-Turbo. Not all Volvo's have this printed circuit. Many have real metal that works fine.

Here's what you'll need:
8mm deep socket and wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Soldering Iron and lots of solder
Wire (18 guage is best, I used 16. Getting OEM colors would be nice)
Shielded connectors (bullet or spade)
Ring-terminal connectors for ground wires
Wire cutters/strippers
Permanent marker
Shop knife
Sand Paper

Ok, first, take all the junk out of the trunk, including the spare tire. Now, unscrew the plastic knob that holds on the plastic cover that is on the inside of the tail light.

Once that is off, unplug the tail light wiring harness from the tail light. (white plastic connector). Unscrew the tail light grounding screw. Remove the tail light by taking off the four 8mm nuts. Carefully pop the tail light off of the car, pushing from the inside of the trunk. Be careful not to damage the rubber seal or the light itself of course. Here's what it should look like:

Now, you'll need to remove that rubber seal and set it aside. Look at the blue printed circuit and figure it out. It's pretty straight forward. All of the light bulbs share a common ground wire that runs around the edge of the circuit board. The "+" wires are the yellow, brown, blue, and black wires that connect to the white plug. I don't know what the white wire does; on my car, it doesn't go to anything. Oh well.

Get out your permanent marker and mark up the blue printed circuit with the color of wire that goes to what bulb so you'll be able to hook things up right later. Also mark each bulb holder so you know what one's go in what holes. They are mostly interchangable, but it makes it easier to keep them straight later.

Next, remove each bulb holder from the tail light and remove the bulbs from the holders. Set the bulbs somewhere safe. Find the plastic tabs on the holders that cover up the metal tabs that go to the light bulbs. Cut off these plastic tabs with the shop knife. An alternative method is to melt them off with the soldering iron. These tabs don't seem to do much and will really get in your way when soldering if left on.

Get your sand paper and sand all the tabs so that the solder will stick to them. Using the blue printed circuit as a guide, cut wires of the appropriate lengths and strip the ends with wire strippers. Now solder the wires to the metal tabs, duplicating the layout of the blue printed circuit. Solder to the "back" side of the tabs so that you can still screw in the bulb holder when you're done.

Here is a picture of the light about half way done. All of the "+" wires have been soldered. Next I did the ground wires. I only had red 16 guage wire, and I didn't want to pay for more wires. However, it would have been easier with 18 guage color-coded wire of course.

Now, wire the ground wire. You can do one ground wire, but I did two. One for the lower two bulbs and one for the upper three bulbs. Now put ring terminals on the ground wires and bullet/spade connectors on the "+" wires. Here's a pic of the completed light

You can use zip ties or whatever to keep the wires together. Next, just cut off the old white plug that is attached to the car and put bullet/spade connectors on those. You could just solder them instead of using connectors, but I wanted to still be able to remove the tail lights later if necessary.

Now put everything back together and do the other side. As far as the "Bulb Failure Warning Light" on the dashboard, this may make it start flashing. However, my bulb failure light went on any time a light was on in my car, even when they were all working, so I just removed the bulb from the back of the instrument panel to keep it from driving me crazy.

It works! (brake and reverse lights not shown)

Acid8000 · 02-13-2006, 06:25 PM

Genius! Ive had alot of problems with Volvo's rear lights, both my dad's 90' 240DL and my 83' 240T go through about 3-6 rear lights every 3-4 months. Very annoying to say the least, and I never even thought of doing this!

Thanks a million!
P.s - Was it you who had the B21F or B23F intake manifold and was considering using it for a Swap instead of the B230? If it was, we should compare notes!

Tenacious Todd · 02-13-2006, 09:20 PM

I have done something like that but I will never have to replace the bulbs

..

rom · 02-13-2006, 09:35 PM

you rule.

blkaplan · 02-13-2006, 09:37 PM

Led ?

swedefiend · 02-13-2006, 09:44 PM

haha, cool/ I did this to my last four door too. Since I started driving wagons though (I guess almost ten years now) I haven't thought about it in a while. Did you drill little holes in the bulb holder contacts? I did because I was never able to get the wire to solder on good enough to not pop off otherwise (but then again, my soldering skills have increased 100^100 times since then). i drilled little holes in the contacts and then soldered the wire on after pushing it through the hole. Never came off again afer that.

Good job!

Tenacious Todd · 02-13-2006, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkaplan

Led ?

You got it...

olov · 02-14-2006, 12:07 AM

/\ how bout you write a article about that?

mrbman7 · 02-14-2006, 11:35 AM

where'd you get your LED's from? anything special or no?

Boosted2003 · 02-14-2006, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo16psi

You got it...

second that

CAPT_BLOTTO · 02-15-2006, 02:22 PM

thanks for the idea i did it a little differently becuase only one light wasn't working and i just soldered the connections for that. one the the ground wire. one to another light and the last i scraped off some the pc board and soldered right to the copper underneath

BRUNOP39 · 10-08-2008, 07:48 PM

Damn can someone make something like this for a 245,,,,Nice write up very well explained and illustrated.
Bruno

Morley · 10-09-2008, 08:25 AM

If the bulb failure light goes on after wiring that up, you made something wrong.

My #1 tip: make sure everything is 100%, then completely remove the bulb failure sensor and solder the wires there.

Thor · 10-09-2008, 12:07 PM

I did this last night. Except I used a dremel tool to size up the spades on the sockets and used spade connectors. I tried the soldering but it didn't work so well. But every thing works fine and no bulb failure light.

fivealive · 11-13-2008, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thor

I did this last night. Except I used a dremel tool to size up the spades on the sockets and used spade connectors. I tried the soldering but it didn't work so well. But every thing works fine and no bulb failure light.

That's a great idea. I didn't do that at the time because I couldn't find spades big enough and didn't have a dremel. That way you can disconnect them if you need to. I'll put that tip in the article at the top.

bdimag · 12-10-2009, 12:35 PM

i've looked all over for the larger than 1/4" quick disconnects... they'd need to be 5/16".

i can't even find them w/ an electronic component distributer (Mouser)... they seem pretty non existent...

though, a trick is, using the .250 connectors, just roll the sides out; they'll fit on without any further modification.

15A · 12-10-2009, 07:18 PM

Older GM truck bulb holders (the ones that are hardwired themselves) fit inside the 240 wagon tails perfectly. It worked great for my LED "conversion".

They'll fit the sedans too but stick out too far to be able to put the inside trim covers back on.

yellow95 · 02-28-2010, 01:01 PM

Where is this "bulb failure sensor" you speak of. Also, does anyone have a wire breakout on the brake lights?

Gary

RP80242GT+T · 04-27-2010, 11:40 PM

It's a red round sensor under the steering column area

pinguin · 04-28-2010, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 15A

Older GM truck bulb holders (the ones that are hardwired themselves) fit inside the 240 wagon tails perfectly. It worked great for my LED "conversion".

They'll fit the sedans too but stick out too far to be able to put the inside trim covers back on.

I was wondering which plug out there would fit...

Those trim covers are like quim covers.

They just get in my way...

dbarton · 06-04-2010, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdimag

i've looked all over for the larger than 1/4" quick disconnects... they'd need to be 5/16".

i can't even find them w/ an electronic component distributer (Mouser)... they seem pretty non existent...

though, a trick is, using the .250 connectors, just roll the sides out; they'll fit on without any further modification.

Even easier solution: Use tin snips to trim the contacts down to 1/4 inch. Worked perfect for me.

Krisverde · 07-12-2010, 05:26 PM

any clue what wires are what?

I imagine I can get a test light and probe the wires ...but I don't want to LOL
EDIT:
Oh you said it's possible to check the board so Ill have to look at that.

Chuck W · 07-12-2010, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krisverde

any clue what wires are what?

I imagine I can get a test light and probe the wires ...but I don't want to LOL
EDIT:
Oh you said it's possible to check the board so Ill have to look at that.

I just did this over the weekend. I just cut the wires off @ the connector and left a little bit to ID them.

Finally don't have to deal sporadic tail lights.

Krisverde · 07-12-2010, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck W

I just did this over the weekend. I just cut the wires off @ the connector and left a little bit to ID them.

Finally don't have to deal sporadic tail lights.

I dunno why but I find this confusing, but then again I'm real tired right now hahaha. Ill probably figure it out.

Posted via Mobile Device

Chuck W · 07-13-2010, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krisverde

I dunno why but I find this confusing, but then again I'm real tired right now hahaha. Ill probably figure it out.

Posted via Mobile Device

You've got to cut the big factory connectors off to use the new connectors. Just leave enough wire hanging out of the factory connector when you cut it off. That way you can ID what color wires go to what on the PCB.

I soldered mine at the bulb holders, but if I ever have to do it again, I may just use the spade connectors.

02-13-2006, 06:25 PM	#2
Acid8000 Board Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Victoria, BC - Canada	Genius! Ive had alot of problems with Volvo's rear lights, both my dad's 90' 240DL and my 83' 240T go through about 3-6 rear lights every 3-4 months. Very annoying to say the least, and I never even thought of doing this! Thanks a million! P.s - Was it you who had the B21F or B23F intake manifold and was considering using it for a Swap instead of the B230? If it was, we should compare notes! __________________ Daily Driver: '83 242Ti w/ B21FTi and M46. IPD Sways, Bilstein HD Struts, Lowering Coils. Mistu 13c @ 10psi - Her name is Domino. Hi my name is Jason, i'm addicted to boost

02-15-2006, 02:22 PM	#11
CAPT_BLOTTO #Crush It Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Kansas City	thanks for the idea i did it a little differently becuase only one light wasn't working and i just soldered the connections for that. one the the ground wire. one to another light and the last i scraped off some the pc board and soldered right to the copper underneath __________________ Hello My Glorious! Junkyard Parts request thread! Mesquite FB page! Constant updates! Da Yellow Sold \| $800 245 \| 77 244

10-08-2008, 07:48 PM	#12
BRUNOP39 THE FLYMAN VOLVO 245 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SAN JUAN,PUERTO RICO/USA	Damn can someone make something like this for a 245,,,,Nice write up very well explained and illustrated. Bruno __________________ http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/9...smallerng1.jpg

10-09-2008, 08:25 AM	#13
Morley Barbie Ken Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Norway	If the bulb failure light goes on after wiring that up, you made something wrong. My #1 tip: make sure everything is 100%, then completely remove the bulb failure sensor and solder the wires there. __________________

10-09-2008, 12:07 PM	#14
Thor Board Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Nebraska	I did this last night. Except I used a dremel tool to size up the spades on the sockets and used spade connectors. I tried the soldering but it didn't work so well. But every thing works fine and no bulb failure light. __________________ 1991 240 M-47 daily driver Build thread: 91 240 Feed back: Here

02-13-2006, 04:29 PM	#1
fivealive Board Member Join Date: May 2005	Hard-wiring 240T tail lights Hard-wiring 240T tail lights NOTE: You don't have to solder to do this. The other option, as discussed in the comments below, is to use female spade connectors on the tabs for the tail light connections. You can either use big spade connectors (which do exist, although they're hard to find) or use a dremel tool to make the tabs small enough for standard spade connectors. OK, I thought this idea up because my tail lights have a lot of problems. After getting pulled over many times for having a bulb out that just turned out to be a bad connection, I got sick of it. So I pulled out my handy soldering iron and ran wires to all the bulbs in the tail lights to replace that printed-circuit piece of plastic. Car is a 1981 Volvo 242 GLT-Turbo. Not all Volvo's have this printed circuit. Many have real metal that works fine. Here's what you'll need: 8mm deep socket and wrench Phillips screwdriver Soldering Iron and lots of solder Wire (18 guage is best, I used 16. Getting OEM colors would be nice) Shielded connectors (bullet or spade) Ring-terminal connectors for ground wires Wire cutters/strippers Permanent marker Shop knife Sand Paper Ok, first, take all the junk out of the trunk, including the spare tire. Now, unscrew the plastic knob that holds on the plastic cover that is on the inside of the tail light. Once that is off, unplug the tail light wiring harness from the tail light. (white plastic connector). Unscrew the tail light grounding screw. Remove the tail light by taking off the four 8mm nuts. Carefully pop the tail light off of the car, pushing from the inside of the trunk. Be careful not to damage the rubber seal or the light itself of course. Here's what it should look like: Now, you'll need to remove that rubber seal and set it aside. Look at the blue printed circuit and figure it out. It's pretty straight forward. All of the light bulbs share a common ground wire that runs around the edge of the circuit board. The "+" wires are the yellow, brown, blue, and black wires that connect to the white plug. I don't know what the white wire does; on my car, it doesn't go to anything. Oh well. Get out your permanent marker and mark up the blue printed circuit with the color of wire that goes to what bulb so you'll be able to hook things up right later. Also mark each bulb holder so you know what one's go in what holes. They are mostly interchangable, but it makes it easier to keep them straight later. Next, remove each bulb holder from the tail light and remove the bulbs from the holders. Set the bulbs somewhere safe. Find the plastic tabs on the holders that cover up the metal tabs that go to the light bulbs. Cut off these plastic tabs with the shop knife. An alternative method is to melt them off with the soldering iron. These tabs don't seem to do much and will really get in your way when soldering if left on. Get your sand paper and sand all the tabs so that the solder will stick to them. Using the blue printed circuit as a guide, cut wires of the appropriate lengths and strip the ends with wire strippers. Now solder the wires to the metal tabs, duplicating the layout of the blue printed circuit. Solder to the "back" side of the tabs so that you can still screw in the bulb holder when you're done. Here is a picture of the light about half way done. All of the "+" wires have been soldered. Next I did the ground wires. I only had red 16 guage wire, and I didn't want to pay for more wires. However, it would have been easier with 18 guage color-coded wire of course. Now, wire the ground wire. You can do one ground wire, but I did two. One for the lower two bulbs and one for the upper three bulbs. Now put ring terminals on the ground wires and bullet/spade connectors on the "+" wires. Here's a pic of the completed light You can use zip ties or whatever to keep the wires together. Next, just cut off the old white plug that is attached to the car and put bullet/spade connectors on those. You could just solder them instead of using connectors, but I wanted to still be able to remove the tail lights later if necessary. Now put everything back together and do the other side. As far as the "Bulb Failure Warning Light" on the dashboard, this may make it start flashing. However, my bulb failure light went on any time a light was on in my car, even when they were all working, so I just removed the bulb from the back of the instrument panel to keep it from driving me crazy. It works! (brake and reverse lights not shown) __________________ Last edited by fivealive; 11-13-2008 at 06:49 PM..

02-13-2006, 09:20 PM	#3
Tenacious Todd Board Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Sykesville MD 21784	I have done something like that but I will never have to replace the bulbs ..

02-13-2006, 09:35 PM	#4
rom Board Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: back home in the big apple.	you rule.

02-13-2006, 09:44 PM	#6
swedefiend Board Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Woodstock	haha, cool/ I did this to my last four door too. Since I started driving wagons though (I guess almost ten years now) I haven't thought about it in a while. Did you drill little holes in the bulb holder contacts? I did because I was never able to get the wire to solder on good enough to not pop off otherwise (but then again, my soldering skills have increased 100^100 times since then). i drilled little holes in the contacts and then soldered the wire on after pushing it through the hole. Never came off again afer that. Good job!

12-10-2009, 12:35 PM	#16
bdimag abandon all hope Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Northern VA	i've looked all over for the larger than 1/4" quick disconnects... they'd need to be 5/16". i can't even find them w/ an electronic component distributer (Mouser)... they seem pretty non existent... though, a trick is, using the .250 connectors, just roll the sides out; they'll fit on without any further modification. __________________ Brian 1991 244 2004 S60 Last edited by bdimag; 12-10-2009 at 01:01 PM..

12-10-2009, 07:18 PM	#17
15A World's Oldest Brewery Join Date: May 2004 Location: OH-MI....just like it sounds	Older GM truck bulb holders (the ones that are hardwired themselves) fit inside the 240 wagon tails perfectly. It worked great for my LED "conversion". They'll fit the sedans too but stick out too far to be able to put the inside trim covers back on. __________________ >>> FEEDBACK <<< (IF YOU WANT ME TO LEAVE YOU FB AFTER THE FACT, JUST SAY) I didn't sleep well last night so I made my coffee this morning with Red Bull instead of water. I got halfway to work before I realized I forgot my car.

02-28-2010, 01:01 PM	#18
yellow95 Board Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Wonderful Warner Robins GA.	Where is this "bulb failure sensor" you speak of. Also, does anyone have a wire breakout on the brake lights? Gary __________________ 1998 V70 T5A Blue 1998 S70 T5M Red 1998 XC70 White SOLD 1998 S70 T5M White SOLD 1995 854 Turbo SOLD 1998 C70 HPT TRADED 1996 850 Turbo SOLD 1998 V70 T5M (Formerly Owned by Paul Newman) SOLD 1998 V70 T5A SOLD 1996 850 Turbo SOLD 1993 244 SOLD 1991 244 SOLD 1985 245 Turbo SCRAPPED 1982 244 Turbo SOLD 1998 V70 T-5M 18T SOLD 1997 854 GLT 16T SOLD 1995 854 18T SOLD 1997 855 SOLD 1996 850 TLA SOLD

04-27-2010, 11:40 PM	#19
RP80242GT+T R-Sport Cluster Guy Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Cape Coral, FL	It's a red round sensor under the steering column area __________________ RP R-Sport and OEM Stock Instrument Cluster Restorations, Sales, parts, service, and customizing. LED Conversion Services Volvo GT Stripe Kits. 1980 242 GT Turbo 2006 Mini Cooper S GP number 1148 1989 240 Wagon " The Beast" Daily Driver

07-12-2010, 05:26 PM	#22
Krisverde Board Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Mesa, Az	any clue what wires are what? I imagine I can get a test light and probe the wires ...but I don't want to LOL EDIT: Oh you said it's possible to check the board so Ill have to look at that. __________________ 1989 Ford f150 5.0 1991 Ford f150 2013 Ford Focus ST Last edited by Krisverde; 07-12-2010 at 06:25 PM..

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