this sounds great, does it fit into the 240?
Sure, *suppose* you could. Seen guys hack and molest that junk in there,...
... but then you'd have to run your accessories like a 7/9 with the alt up top/driver's side and sorta molest/remove a lot of originality from the car the car/make the engine bay pretty busy looking/run the remote reservoir medusa of hoses for the power steering as they do on the 7/9s (at least the hoses tuck into/around the front x-member somewhat neatly on those/designed a little better for that)?
I don't really *care* for the 7/9 accessory arrangement, more 'reliable' (no fuss in light DD use, anyway, tho the motors look COOKED in the e-fan cars upon disassembly/postmortem examination en masse) as it mostly is in the 1995 940 setup, except except the alt bushings that are still present in the last of the 7/9s IIRC,
Yeah, 1995 940 setup doesn't have that annoying hooptie bunch of bushings for the A/C comp that still have the V-birds (belts).
Yeah, the 7/9 (B230, accessories on 84 760 B23FT are like a 240 4-cyl) redblock cars PS pump doesn't have bushings either, much like the '85+ non-A/C bracket for the PS pump for 240s.
Fair enough, they figured that out and did a better job with those bits, I give 'em that.
& as the years roll on & as the doodoo geely/ bean counter-corporation sourced absolute cheapest slave-produced thaiwang rubber gets crapped into the Volvo dealership sold blue box parts even (not just craptermarket for cars over ~10 years old federally implied chassis warranties and lemon laws (state & fed) built to stringent high volume and quality control standards for new cars, the rubber bushings kinda aren't your friend/desirable as the cars age.
That said, & I know I'm going to get **** for this on the hack-maim-molester so called 'enthusiast' tweaker board, the 240 design with the dual alt belts & rubber compliance in the system is conceptually good with what they had available for the technology of the time/belt drive systems common to cars of the era.
I also happen to want the 2nd belt around the water pump pulley for more power to drive the engine cooling fan for towing with the larger water pump pulley/fan and water pump spinning slower than it does in the small pulley B230FT cars with less belt tension required overall, compared to the 7/9 setup that way, which is non-negotiable for me.
The mechanical engine cooling fan does draw ~3-4HP with the made-in-japan (now seemingly NLA?...no more Toytas spec it in quality???) T-static tropical clutch mostly locked up climbing hills at 3-6psi of boost constantly over ~2 hours with the roof rack loaded down loaded for bear pulling a trailer with the A/C blasting ice cold working to help build houses 600 miles away for relatives having to cross the cascade mountains in the high desert in the summer heat out of the 245TI. 12-16mpg.
I ran an 82? T-stat, no cat converter & 75? oil cooler t-stat as the k-jets cars don't have to have the the coolant as hot as the LH EFI cars to burn optimally (part of the reason I like them so much for ultimate cold weather running and absolute longevity of the engine, as well as relatively EMP-proof/fewer mouse ticklers/proprietary circuit boards (precision machining of fuel dist & tiny screens tho, yes)/elecrons; good compromise between carb with a heat source & FI in a lot of ways for economy, power (well, there's the flapper plate bad restriction if you don't actuate the metering pin with a finely controlled fast acting ball-screw stepper motor of course...tho no worse than a down-draft crab) emissions & longevity).
Further, though the execution uh...leaves something to be desired (to say the least!) with the bushings & bracket/tensioner arm strength...(accessories don't sit cockeyed or fall off my old 300-6 F250 or Japanese cars
)
...the idea/concept with what they had available is right as a good compromise;
-longer water pump bearing lifespan/less vibration
-more consistent belt tension/lifespan in different temps/as the belts wear if you don't periodically adjust or check the tension constantly/regularly to precise specs.
-Longer alt bearing & service life in theory.
-Quieter, I suppose...it's a tractor of a 4-cyl iron tall engine (except the 164/B30 with the 6-hole)...not sure I'd be able to tell the difference most of the time? Much like the OE steel timing gears...I guess they're louder?/have a slight whirr/whine to them over the fiber, but the whole tractor engine & 1960s car is loud, who cares & in the case of the OE steel gears, they don't leave you stranded unexpectedly?
-Still allows use of common garden variety V-belts as were common in the 70s/early 80s when 240s came out or a road-side repair with a 'make your own length' fan belt in the trunk to limp off climbing the grape vine in the summer/similar where many a car would overheat/gasp & die in the summers with a proprietary serp or multi-rib belt that's not repairable in the field or complicated idler-damper a la hiter's revenge/VW uses on the TDIs; if it breaks in the field, you're basically screwed/stranded/can't fix it with a generic roadside clip-together v-belt or collections of bolts/bailing twine grapes of wrath style for bushing shenanigans.
Volvo was trying to get it right with what was commonly around at the time for all markets and uses at cost without getting complaints in warranty?
They sure coulda made the alloy block brackets a lot stronger/with a MUCH better safety factor & captured/encapsulated the rubber bushings in a way that the accessories still were fully constrained & held in position straight/more precisely in the free body diagram with a 'bushing aging simulation test,' but they tried?
You don't want poly bushings there either as sharp edges can more easily slice them and they're bouncy like a bouncy-ball (don't dampen all that well/more like silly putty) even tho they don't permanently deform or shrink as easily...in theory.
What's the answer? IDK/I don't have a single best answer or think I do and am on a budget/trying to keep the car as original/easily repaired by anyone with the factory book as possible more or less?
-Hoard decent used old rubber bushings lightly used/re-clock them and add some material to them after they've shrunk a bit?
-Reinforce the arms for the A/C pump/thru bolt it at the bottom with a spacer.
-Some really thin SS fender washers between alt & bushing to spread the load better?
So far, no fuss/no more drama in fairly heavy (not outright lemons enduro motorsport) use/abuse just doing that?
Quiet belts, good accessory longevity, good belt life, sufficient power to the aligned belts to drive everything, road side repair 'clip together' belt has yet to be used in the 'trunk repair kit.'
Having the motor not leak helps.
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Oh, and as to your previous post about different brackets, yes, the stamped steel bracket from compressor to mounting bolt thru the bushing is different on 1993s with the 220cc R134A compressor instead of the ~140 or 160cc R12 rotary compressors, you're right about that & that's important;
Don't forget to grab those with the compressor, tho you can still buy them new if ya hafta from the dealer at reasonable cost too IIRC (famous last words, anymore)?!?
But, the alloy block bracket looks identical/same part # in the fiche for 85-93 240s, unless mine eyes deceive me or you're seeing something I'm not?
I used the compressor and stamped steel brackets &tensioner arms from the 1993 donor/no issues, but alloy block bracket stayed on the '87 I installed the entire 1993 A/C system into.
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Totally aside/to the room in general, the threads/hose ends for the R134A compressor are unique to the R134 cars. I don't really mix & match R12 & R134A parts or oils anymore, so it's not much of an issue, tho it won't quite be factory original to any specific year as you crimp your hoses/deal with your various threaded ended hoses.
Maybe with enough flushing if you use POE oil I'll re-use some R12 parts with 134 (tho I mostly use hydrocarbons on stuff where it's custom anyway)...IDK you're making compromises there.
The old R12 compressors or condensers aren't really up to the task of cooling with R134 & the expansion valve will need to be adjusted for orifice size & variability on the R134...it came in the dealer retrofit kit IDK, but the R12 valve is adjustable?
The old R12 hoses also don't really hold the R134 & its oil effectively at its operating pressures long term, either & should be replaced. R12 oil shouldn't really be mixed with R134, but if you have refrigerant gas only, POE/ester oil is compatible with traces of R12 mineral oil with everything flushed, PAG oil is NOT.
The hooptie accessory bushings, even on a dry non-leaking engine or PS pump can result in premature A/C pump shaft wear and result in the compressor shaft seals leaking that much sooner, even if everything else is tip top.
Its a huge PITA if you want no fuss ice cold A/C without having to babysit it and have it last in these.
But it was an afterthought/designed and installed as a dealer setup right or left hand drive on the cheap in the 200 chassis.
On the R134 if it's over 100 degrees out it also sucks the life out of the poor tractor redblock to keep you cool and from having a heat stroke, but A/C performance that's ice cold is possible on most of the components Volvo supplied if you set them up right & use quality/appropriate refrigeration oil.
My strategy is not to live anywhere where mammals can have brain damage &/or a stroke or drive or be out in peak heat hours, but I realize that's not practical for everyone or always possible.
These cars are largely conceived of for skinny little scanadavian gravel roads as conceived with the 1967 140 & to be American market compatible from there forward in the original clean slate design for the first big 1968 revisions for DOT safety, emissions & lighting laws to appeal to the American market for increased sales volume.
Hot weather brutal traffic American-south wasn't really in the plans...& not that many people with money that were 'Volvo' customers lived there when Volvo conceived of the 140 (& subsequently evolved it into the 240 that was a bit more A/C/powersteering compatible in its design).
It was also less hot then (or fewer extremely hot days where people commuted long distances at peak heat hours in severely conjested traffic, anyway) & A/C was a rare & very expensive option on all but expensive luxury American cars for the most part apart from a Cadillac, Lincoln or Chrysler imperial brands that were exclusively for the American market and emerging car-based sprawling & more suburban with big interstate interchanges (like Dallas, Atlanta, Houston & Phoenix, especially) sun-belt capitol & (thus people/talent to chase it) migration in the late 60s/early 70s....