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Old 05-21-2020, 01:59 PM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Default CD009 swap hydraulic clutch adjustment

I am currently performing a CD009 swap into my 87 Volvo 740. I am using yoshifab's stage 3 clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel package. I'm also using their upgraded throwout bearing.

I have yet to bolt up the M46 bell housing to the CD009 as I would first like to make sure I get throwout bearing/pivot ball/slave spacing all figured out by bolting the bellhousing to the engine.

I am currently using the more "pushed out" position on the yoshifab bearing but have yet to space out the pivot ball.

Is there some kind of procedure I could follow for this without just installing the whole swap and testing?

I have bolted up the bell housing to look at the fork angle (I've read perpendicular to the input shaft and even a little more angled towards the slave is optimal?) I do not however want to depress the clutch because nothing is holding the clutch disc in alignment beside the force of the pressure plate. This means the clutch disc would just fall if the clutch disengaged.

Is there some way I can test the clutch disengagement point without installing the full trans?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:34 PM   #2
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis

When I needed to do this (JV billet flywheel and Saaaaaab pressure plate) I just stuck the bellhousing on with the pressure plate and clutch bolted to the flywheel. There's nothing to hold the clutch fork and t/o bearing in the proper place - but the opening in the bellhousing only lets it flop so far. Just hold it where it's supposed to go, and then judge where the lever is in relation to the opening. If it's too far forward - you might not have enough travel to release the clutch. If it's too far back - it might 'top out' as the disc wears, and leave the clutch slipping. More or less in the middle?

Certainly a far easier task to deal with the bellhousing alone, and you can reach inside and fiddle with the pivot ball and spacers.
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:19 AM   #3
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: San Clemente

The slave cylinder push rod would pop out so I added a washer or two behind the pivot ball until it did not. You can do this while it is in the car. I have a stock dog dish and pressure plate with a standard clutch disc with the correct spline count.

My clutch engages only at the very end of the clutch pedal travel, I don't care for it that way, but I am too lazy to fix it.

I have done thousands of race track shifts since. Not a single crunch during a shift.
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Old 05-30-2021, 01:15 PM   #4
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Anyone have a shim combo for this? I've got the same setup as OP yoshifab clutch & flywheel with upgraded throwout bearing. I've used the included 1/2" pivot ball spacer that came with the throwout bearing because that seems to be the best combo for getting the throwout in the right spot. Though once I've put the boot on the fork it really limits the travel and prevents the fork from moving all the way to the engaged position. Would it be unreasonable to trim the opening for the fork in the bellhousing a 1/4" or so towards the flywheel?
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Old 05-30-2021, 01:19 PM   #5
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Side note
I have never installed a clutch nor transmission before so any tips and tricks on this are appreciated

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