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740 Kaplhenke strut top alignment issues

Last alignment place did slight toe out, ended up being HORRIBLE tracking, HORRIBLE in the winter (just wandering around in the snow). I even iterated I need toe IN by at least 1deg. Won't be going there again. Toe at 0 will cause the issues
 
Dauntless said:
Also the slide adjustment bolts fouled on the strut tower top, which had to be bent out to clear. Apart from that I expected them to be harsh on the road, but the loud banging noise when hitting bumps is very uncomfortable.
Click to expand...

You do know there are multiple holes for the slide adjustment bolts so as you change the adjustment range you can use the different holes and don't have to bend anything to clear, right?

You kept the big tapered washer installed, right?

Are you running bumpstops? If you are hearing a loud banging noise you have something wrong with your setup, Getting coil bind?
 
Dauntless said:
Thanks, this is exactly the information I was looking for.

I don't think they did. The problem started when I fitted the strut tops myself, and didn't get resolved after a number of alignments. I didn't do anything that would affect the toe.
Click to expand...

Wait a sec.
Lemme get this straight

You did a single change----added top mounts---and suddenly had the steering wheel un-centered?
 
Pete.M said:
Sometimes when you change settings like camber the tyres have to wear to this new position before they feel right. One example of this is the tyre "skip" problem on tight turns, where some people find that new tyres solve the problem. I don't fully understand this, but it might be playing a part in your problem.

Can you try running more caster and see if that reduces the tendency to follow ruts?

Edit: I'd recommend setting the toe where you want it and then giving it a few weeks to see if it starts to feel better. Mine felt slightly odd straight after alignment, but I've either got used to it or it improved.
Click to expand...
I've been running the current alignment for a few months. How much castor should I ask for?

thelostartof said:
While you do not need one of those big fancy machines, you need a shop that knows what they are doing. I have done more than a few alignments with a tape measure that would keep tires alive with no uneven wear for 40-50k. It all depends on if you set it up correctly.

The only reason I say one of those newer machines is that is make it a lot easier for your average tech to do things correctly as they make them stupid easy, Plus you can see the numbers and get a proper print out.

If anything make them center the wheel (if you do not follow Johns simple steps for fixing) and have them set some Toe in, if they will not then for sure go else where.

Bottom of page, and this is right out of the owners manual.
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1994/1994_940/94940_9_1.html
Click to expand...
This is excellent information, thanks!

Toe-in, measured on the wheel rim: 2.3 mm +/- 1.0 mm
tire sides: 2.8 +/- 1.3 mm

atrokz said:
Last alignment place did slight toe out, ended up being HORRIBLE tracking, HORRIBLE in the winter (just wandering around in the snow). I even iterated I need toe IN by at least 1deg. Won't be going there again. Toe at 0 will cause the issues
Click to expand...
Good to know, thanks.

blkaplan said:
You do know there are multiple holes for the slide adjustment bolts so as you change the adjustment range you can use the different holes and don't have to bend anything to clear, right?

You kept the big tapered washer installed, right?

Are you running bumpstops? If you are hearing a loud banging noise you have something wrong with your setup, Getting coil bind?
Click to expand...
I'm a bit confused by this. I can't see multiple holes for the slide adjustment bolts on my strut tops:

IMAG1419.jpg


Link to more pics if useful:
http://zyrex.org/gallery/Cars/DauntsVolvo/vehicles/volvo745t/springsstruttops/

Now that you mention bump stops, I can't remember seeing them. I'm assuming Bilstein HDs come with them? I certainly didn't remove them.

I couldn't reuse the washers from the old strut tops, as they were a larger diameter than the hole on the underside of the new strut tops.

How do I check for coil bind?



John V said:
Wait a sec.
Lemme get this straight

You did a single change----added top mounts---and suddenly had the steering wheel un-centered?
Click to expand...
That's right.
 
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Dauntless said:
Link to more pics if useful:
http://zyrex.org/gallery/Cars/DauntsVolvo/vehicles/volvo745t/springsstruttops/

Now that you mention bump stops, I can't remember seeing them. I'm assuming Bilstein HDs come with them? I certainly didn't remove them.


How do I check for coil bind?
Click to expand...

I'll browse through and see what i come across.

On your generation camber plates there are 2 sets of holes for the slots that are spaced further apart, 1 set has the flat head screws going into it from the bottom and the other is Used from the top. You can swap the 2 if you are going for a decent amount of camber/caster.

You can see the other screw in your picture, You only use one or the other, and its the other if you plan to run a lot of negative camber.

The lastest gen setup we changed to using a torx screw so it has slightly less profile and easier to get it to the edge of the sheet metal and make adjustments.

If your running a setup like where you have it positioned in the picture then I would leave it as is.

If its a bilstein then it has an internal bumpstop and should be fine as long as it hasn't been modified.

Where you have the strut mount positioned currently you don't have too much caster. you want it to be closer to the windshield.
 
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Change the path to angle more towards the windshield, Put in as much positive caster as you can and get a little bit of negative camber.
 
Dauntless said:
Thanks guys. So just confirming, I'll ask for:

-1 deg camber
2.5mm toe in
7 deg castor
Click to expand...

I would start there.
Every shop should be able to give you a printout these days.
It is their job to get the steering wheel straight. If they don't the alignment isn't done.

I have had more issues with alignments than I care to complain about. It's so easy to do it on my car, everything is new, has camber plates, and it's not too low.

Hope you can find a good shop this time.
 
Sounds like you screwed something up somehow somewhere. It shouldn't have a huge clunk and the wheel should not have moved off center unless you adjusted the tie rods somehow.
 
Dauntless said:
Thanks guys. So just confirming, I'll ask for:

-1 deg camber
2.5mm toe in
7 deg castor
Click to expand...

This reminds me very much of the settings we used on a rally-740 and on my own 940. (i miss that car...)
i even used a bit more negative camber (-2.5deg). modded OEM topmounts.
i got the increased caster angle by modding both: topmount backwards, controlarm pushed forward.
it tracked stable, gripped like crazy (Bridgestone RE050A's@2.4bar, stock 16" tire size) and had excellent even tire wear. We do have lots of curvy roads and roundabouts and i did like to use all that extra front end grip. So if you drive mainly on straight roads your choice of -1deg might actually be the better choice.

just by looking at your picture your caster seems(way) off. just by correcting that caster you will regain grip in slow speed sharp cornering and self centering action will be stronger which should also help straight tracking.

side note: make sure those mushroom bushings in the control arm, that support the reaction arm, are in good condition. If these are worn they can cause some weird wonky suspention behaviour. (like low speed wheel hopping when turning in sharply and brake judder/vibrations)
This wonky wheel hopping behaviour will be stronger when you have set more caster angle.
 
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Magnum TE said:
yea Caster is king, I need to get some adjustable strut rods to get some more caster out of my setup.
Click to expand...

why not add some spacer rivets (5mm each side) between control arm and reaction arm?
we did it on my brothers 780 without any other mods and it is a super cheap mod with excelent results.
 
Janspeed said:
why not add some spacer rivets (5mm each side) between control arm and reaction arm?
we did it on my brothers 780 without any other mods and it is a super cheap mod with excelent results.
Click to expand...

I already added teh spacers, it's not enough for my tastes it's I've only got ~5deg caster
 
Magnum TE said:
I already added teh spacers, it's not enough for my tastes it's I've only got ~5deg caster
Click to expand...

I believe Mark (Netherlands) posted the 7/9 series lower arm part#s in the past....there is an OE rear arm (the STAY position I think it's called) that is longer that stock. I know I have that part# somewhere in my 9 series folder, hmmmm..... Could provide the additional caster you are looking for.

Don't know what my settings are on the DD with the current mod'd top hats. I do know that on my 70 Malibu I have about 5.5* of caster and she tracks like a cruise missile on the interstates....
 
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