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Air box mod for 240's

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I wanted to clamp the pipe with zip ties to the frame, but I never got around to do that. The pipe hasn't come off, it's still on there very good.
I mamaged to mount the bend behind the headlight without removing the airbox, but it was very difficult... I guess that 5 mm matters a lot, the bend was just a bit too big.
 
Nice mod!
I'm seriously considering doing this.
It should be a good follow-up to my headlight mod (working on that now) - dual 6x8" sealed beams should leave room for some ductwork.

Can you confirm?
1) Original short hose goes from air box to existing hole in headlight/radiator support bracket.
2) New 90-degree bend goes on front side of bracket, points towards front of radiator area.
3) 30 or 45-degree bend points approximately towards the horns?

Thanks!
 
brucepick said:
....
1) Original short hose goes from air box to existing hole in headlight/radiator support bracket.
2) New 90-degree bend goes on front side of bracket, points towards front of radiator area.
3) 30 or 45-degree bend points approximately towards the horns?
exactly!
the 45-degree bend is not really needed, but that way it takes the air from a bit higher so in the case of deep water its a bit safer.
 
I just bought a 3" (what is supposed to be a 3 inch but ended up being more like 3.5") 90 deg bend but it was too large for the aforementioned reason. I measured the hole that goes through the headlight support and it was about 3 inches. Removing the headlight helps alot, but it is still hard to fit it in there with the frame and the wiring harnesses. I'm going back to the hardware store to get a smaller diameter bend.
 
growley said:
I just bought a 3" (what is supposed to be a 3 inch but ended up being more like 3.5") 90 deg bend but it was too large for the aforementioned reason. I measured the hole that goes through the headlight support and it was about 3 inches. Removing the headlight helps alot, but it is still hard to fit it in there with the frame and the wiring harnesses. I'm going back to the hardware store to get a smaller diameter bend.
3" is usually inside diameter I guess...
Over here in europe, the things are measured in mm and the outside diameter. 75mm fits very good, so 3" OD or maybe 2.5" ID (IIRC, that means 76 mm OD) is the best I guess..
 
growley said:
... I'm going back to the hardware store to get a smaller diameter bend.

Standard # of trips to hardware store per repair project: 5
# of trips for plumbing repair projects: 15
# of trips per automotive modification project: 51 :badboy:
 
JW240 said:
3" is usually inside diameter I guess...
Over here in europe, the things are measured in mm and the outside diameter. 75mm fits very good, so 3" OD or maybe 2.5" ID (IIRC, that means 76 mm OD) is the best I guess..

heh forgot about that. I went back to the hardware store and got a 2" diameter bend. That's all I have in there right now.
 
growley said:
heh forgot about that. I went back to the hardware store and got a 2" diameter bend. That's all I have in there right now.
I drove around without anything on there for some time, thats also possible... (duh ;-) )
 
BiG_BrIcK_240 said:
how about i just rip out the warm air tube thingy?
can be done, but then the air is sucked into the airbox from inside the engine compartment, and from a lower point. Better to rip out the t-stat, put a cap on the preheat hose connection and rip out the sorkel thingie and replace that with a bit of 2.5" tubing (with or without bend)
 
JW240 said:
can be done, but then the air is sucked into the airbox from inside the engine compartment, and from a lower point. Better to rip out the t-stat, put a cap on the preheat hose connection and rip out the sorkel thingie and replace that with a bit of 2.5" tubing (with or without bend)
Better to remove the T-stat, and re-route the preheat hose to the lower spoiler to inhale cold air.
 
I'll get pics up of this eventually but the way I did it on my 740 was left my original fender cai which picks up behind turn signal in front of wheel, high enough I don't worry about water. (in fact I cross creeks with it) then capped off the preheater almost exactly like you've got it there, red cap off a can of berryman's, then just inside on preheat side I took a drywall saw and blew a hole out through the bottom of the box to three and a half inches - used more plastic rattle can lids cut into segments to fishbowl the air off both sides directly up with a ****load of silicone (I'm'a go put zipties in for affect) and bought the appropriate radiator hose (probably off some damned ford) but it was about the same three and a half inches with something slightly softer than a ninety and shot straight out through the front to sit behind air dam. This way even with the cai capped the engine runs like it was meant to stock and unless they're both submerged they're not going to drink.
Maybe it defeats the forced ness of the thing but it makes a mean chuckle with the amm descreened and a k&n sitting at idle and a rabid honda at wot (minus the beer can chipper noise and the mini me 'wheeeeeeeee') well, it's hard to really tell what they sound like at wot when they're that far behind.
-Tick
 
Lol, nice.

And about water... You know my method of cutting open the front of the airbox? Let's call that a SUMMER airbox only. If you have a K&N in there, it might be ok, but, with the stock paper air filter in there, it gets wet when it rains. In light rain it's ok, but when it starts pouring, and when there's lots of spray from the cars in front of you, the air filter gets soaked! And, the car feels groggy, because it can't breathe through the waterlogged filter. So that's an update on my setup... I'm going to switch to just tossing on a K&N cone filter though, hopefully I can get some sort of hose/piping to place it behind the left headlight, near where the car's stock intake goes. Then make up some sort of heatshield to only allow it to pull air from around there. Should be less restrictive than the stock airbox, I think.
 
i finally got around to doing this but i gutted mine then wrapped it in some insolution stuff from home depot, and pulled off the warm air hose. worked really good, the needle sits just a tad lower on the gadge. i now need to find a cap of cover the warm air hose hole in the airbox
 
i just pulled the snorkel and the 90* bent it hooks to off since there so restrictive. now i'm just pulling aur from behind the headlight
 
NA mods = waste of time

but still fun :D

my first mod on my NA 244 was to ditch the box for a cheapo cone, no real improvement but i can hear the vacuum

but my kjet airbox got 3in ductwork and no passenger high beam :twisted:
 
oo4playmrright said:
NA mods = waste of time

but still fun :D

my first mod on my NA 244 was to ditch the box for a cheapo cone, no real improvement but i can hear the vacuum

but my kjet airbox got 3in ductwork and no passenger high beam :twisted:

Well, the airbox mod shouldn't bee looked at as a performance mod, i like to think of it as "fixing" the thermostat be ripping it out.:)

And doesn't Kjet not like cone filters? I remember reading that somewhere, I dunno.:???:
 
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